Love Sewing Magazine Kimono III & Boudoir Blushes Vest

So after last week's boxy kimono, I felt needed to get closure and have another go at making up my garment suited more to my style.

The fabric I chose this time was the skull patterned open weave affair that I spotted in Hillsborough last weekend. I knew as soon as I touched it that this fabric's drape would be much more suited to the pattern.

What no one told me though, was how much of an arse open weave is to sew. I can tell you now my machine hated every second of it. My machine seemed to be making a few odd clunks last week when I was inserting a zip into my college dress, so after this weekend's marathon clunking session (not as fun as it sounds...) I'm slightly concerned about what state my machine is in.
Anyway, I battled through, sewing the seams as smoothly as I could. I was about half way when I had a brainwave and tried using a piece of tissue under my fabric while I sewed so that the stitches had something to hold on to in more open areas of the fabric.
Once the seam was sewn it was easy enough to remove the tissue just by ripping it away. Much less stress!

Due to the terror of the situation, along with last week's lumpy seams, I decided not to go for French seams this weekend. Luckily for me, my fabric was not prone to fraying! So assembledge was made much simpler as I left my edges trimmed neatly, but not stitched.
The simple way of finishing (cheating?) Meant that the garment was made up in an afternoon and ready to wear that evening.

Now, regulars of you will remember last week I also had the problem of not knowing what to wear with my kimono. So my second make of the week was a simple lace vest using the basic shape of the Boudoir Blushes camisole from the Secrets of Sewing Lingerie book.

There are a few differences between the camisole and my vest top.
1- I have added an extra panel to the boob area as the lace is a bit see-throughy. To do this I literally just copied the top of the pattern, put the darts in, and then stitched it to the front piece. The two layers aren't completely opaque, so don't worry boys! It's still lacey enough to be a bit flirty.

2- I did not add a lace trim to the vest like I did the camisole as I didn't want to to look too pyjamay. Instead I edged it with binding I made from excess fabric. The lace was a bit bobbly, so it leads to quite a casual effect, but think that works quite nicely in a textural kind of way.

Which leads me on to 3- The straps attached are just extensions of the binding. I did not add hoops and sliders, instead just attached the binding straps to the back panel.

The vest in pretty simple but just what I needed to wear for summer whilst keeping those abs tucked away.

How is everyone getting on with Me Made May 2015? My double whammy this weekend has opened my options up a bit for the month! I'm keeping a log on my Instagram of my outfits throughout the month, but will be updating on here at relevant stages... I've made a couple of hairclips up incase we get desperate!

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Currently listening to: Maybe On Monday, Calexico

Love Sewing Magazine Kimono II

My last two projects were made from quite heavy fabric- quite wintery really, so I fancied knocking up something quick and summery now the sun has finally decided to make an appearance.

The last kimono I made back in October was a medium, but it has always been a snudge too big, so I shrunk the pattern down to a small before cutting the fabric. The pattern instructions are quite straight forward, however after stitching up in french seams it became quite obvious that the fabric had a bit too much body to get away with it. The seams were quite bulky and really affected the way the fabric hung. I took out the side seams and just sewed them up with a straight forward seam. This is the second time I've been caught out by thinking french seams would be a good idea, so I'm really going to assess whatever fabric I buy in future to check the body vs drape factor. This fabric overall did have a bit too much body to hang quite the way I wanted it to, the result being quite a boxy shape that is maybe difficult to look flattering. So perhaps unconventionally I am more comfortable with it knotted at the front.

The neckband was sewn on by hand, which I am really getting the hang of now after having hand sewn the waistbands on my skirts and the neck ties on my Lottie blouses! It's still tedious but love being able to hide my stitches neatly.

I'm struggling slightly to figure out what to wear this with. It looks pretty good here with my post-break-up bod and not much underneath, but until the sun is absolutely blazing here in Sheffield I don't think the world needs to see my tum! I tried a black vest, but I think I need something with a bit more contrast to make the most of the sheer quality of the fabric.

I have my eye on some more fabric at Hillsborough Fine Fabrics that is much more drapey so keep your eyes peeled- that might be next weeks task...

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Currently listening to: Jungle Cat, Tiger Army

Love Sewing Magazine/Simple Sew, Wiggle Skirt II

This is my third skirt using the Lottie/Wiggle Skirt pattern from Love Sewing Magazine. The shape of the skirt is absolutely perfect for work. I wanted to make my third using some felty fabric, ideally I was looking for plain black, but this pinstripe fabric at £5.99 p/m was just the texture I was looking for. I had bought some cute little anchor buttons the week before with it in mind that I would sew them to the front of my next skirt alongside the front darts.

When cutting the pattern, I used my offcuts again from the first Lottie skirt to make sure the sizing was correct. I really need to commit this pattern to paper! I did however change the side seams a little this time, taking a little more in from the back towards the hemline to help accentuate my hips!

I finally plucked up the courage to use my twin-needle along the hemline. I've always been put off from using it as you have to do it from the top and can't always tell if you are catching the hem on the otherside. I was particularly proud of the finish though- something I will definitely be doing again!



I was much more precise when inserting my zip this time. I made sure the zip tag was right at the top of the waistband, which can be tricky when inserting before the whole skirt is assembled. Also had to focus on getting the pinstripes on my bum equidistant from the zip! Think I did okay...

Overall I think this is the best skirt I have made so far, simply due to the shaping and fit which I tweaked as I went along to make it more flattering. Next time I make a skirt I do fancy drafting my own as there seems to be quite a few tutorials online. Then hey, maybe when I've mastered that the next step will be lining the damn thing...

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Currently listening to: 7 Years Down, Rancid

Love Sewing Magazine Quilted Dog Coat and Wiggle Skirt

Easter weekend was a fruitful few days for sewing! Over the weekend I finally got time to start what I have wanted to do for a while now, and make a coat for my dog!

I used the free pattern from Love Sewing Magazine issue 10. It took my quite a while to settle on what fabric to use, as my idea was to make myself a matching skirt. I fell in love with some grey woolen fabric with a pink pinstripe but knew Marble wouldn't really appreciate the pink. We settled for some checked black and white fabric from Hillsborough Fine Fabrics at £7.99 p/m.
The Dog coat is lined with some left over dalmatian fabric from the dress I am working on at college and quilted with a layer of fleecy fabric also from Hillsborough fine fabrics. The stash also included shop-bought bias-binding, which I used for the first time as I really didn't fancy making 5 metres of my own!

Step one is to cut all three layers of the fabric to the same size and then mark out lines to make diamonds for quilting. The magazine suggests spacing them 2 inches apart, but I just used the width of the ruler to make life a little easier. I used pink tailors chalk to mark these lines out, but it seems to have permanently marked the fabric! I could have used pink pinstripe fabric after all! I'm hoping after a bit of wear or the odd rain shower this will fade...!
Despite the process being just stitching straight diagonal lines, quilting is actually what took the most time! I read that without using a walking foot, sewing three layers can result in the top layer sliding around a bit, so I had the brainwave to do the whole thing with my zipper foot, on the thinking that it wouldn't shift the top layer as much as a regular foot would. Without actually having tried it with a regular foot I can't tell you if this was a good idea or not, but I didn't have much trouble with my layers mis-aligning, so I guess it wasn't a bad idea.

Once the fabric is all quilted it's time to cut out the pattern. Then all that's really left to do is stitch on the binding all the way around the edge and apply the velcro. This project was a nice break from all the shaping that usually comes with making as this pattern is essentially just 2D. The magazine suggests sewing on a collar, but I didn't really fancy it, and also a button hole for the dog's lead to go through, but I think that must be for dogs on harnesses.

The hardest thing about making this was getting the correct sizing while trying to measure a dog who has no idea what's going on. He seems quite happy to wear it now it's made though.


Second make over Easter weekend was my matching skirt (without pink chalk lines on this time!). I used the Wiggle Skirt pattern also from Issue 10 of Love Sewing, but found it is exactly the same as the Lottie Skirt. I didn't mind too much though as I was eager to make another Lottie skirt anyway as I have been wearing my blue one quite a lot at work.
I made a few alterations on my first Lottie skirt, which I never applied to the paper pattern, but luckily I did save the bit I cut off of my first skirt. I drew round this onto my checked fabric so that this skirt would fit the same. Genious!
The main difference, besides this fabric being much thicker, was that this time I DID use interfacing on the waistband, which was a much better idea than not using it!

I was pretty pleased with myself for getting the skirt fully made in a day! I'm really happy with both the fabric and the fit. I can't wait to wear it to work! The thicker fabric really suited the style... And I got away without adding a lining! I am really going to have to pluck up the courage and make something with a lining, maybe next time!

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Ps, who spotted the sneaky matching hairbow? Do I have too much time on my hands?

Currently listening to: If Love Was a Plane, Brad Paisley

High Waisted Panel Pants

Having completed the projects I'd planned for my easter break with one day to spare I thought I would knock together something speedy.
I've been planning for a while to modify 'So Zo..'s pants pattern and make the waistline a little higher. So that's what I did!

The pattern adjustments were pretty simple, just a case of extending the height by around 1 and a half inches. I divided the original pattern into panels as I have done in the past- one red velvet panel in the front, two lace panels either side and also a lace panel that was sewn on the outside of the gusset.

The assembling seemed to run very smoothly today. The only bit still needing practice being applying the lace around the leg holes. It's still pretty fiddly! I think this time the stitch I used was a little too wide, but the thought of unpicking and redoing didn't seem appealing.

I'm really happy with the fit, especially to say that the pattern adjustments I made were pure guesswork. I didn't pull the elastic too tightly when stitching it on, so they fit quite comfortably just above my hips. The should sit quite nicely under my new high-waisted skirt I made yesterday!

Next up I'm tempted to try and make a matching suspender belt from the fantastic Secrets of Sewing Lingerie book, as I have some red velvet left and have also noticed some suspender clips in my local haberdashery.

Happy Easter fellow sewers!

x

Currently listening to: Can't hold Us Down, Christina Aguilera ft. Lil' Kim

Love Sewing Magazine/Simple Sew, Lottie Skirt and Modified Blouse

It's no secret that I've been obsessed with Love Sewing Magazine's free Lottie blouse pattern, but a couple of weeks back I decided to complete the look by having a go at the Lottie Skirt.

The fabric I chose was the last little bit on the bolt in the shop, so knew I couldn't cock it up. It is quite thin, so perhaps the skirt could have done with a lining, but I always hate linings on shop bought garments and have been known to take them out, so thought that I wouldn't ruin what could be a potentially good skirt by throwing one in. Poor excuse I know.

So the first problem I had was the size ten I cut being too big. I foolishly rushed into thinking I knew what I was doing and cut some bits off, which worked great for the front, but left the back without room for my bum! Definitely no sitting down for me. Luckily, as I didn't want the skirt to be the same length as the pattern, I had just enough fabric to cut a second back, which I actually didn't cut smaller at all. Instead I took quite a bit more in in the darts than the pattern suggested and this seemed to do the trick.

I was happy to find that the waistband was just a straight piece folded over, so didn't have to faff around finding the middle and matching curves up etc. I have read on a few different reviews that the sizes on the pattern for the waistband are actually too short, so anyone having a go I would suggest cutting it extra long as I did, and fitting it to suit the skirt when necessary. Stupidly, I thought as the pattern didn't say anything about using interfacing I would be able to get away without interfacing the waistband. That is really the only thing I regret! It folds over a little if I sit down but could be much worse.
I'm pretty happy with the length and the split up the back is rather neat... Even if I have split the stitching since stepping over my dog. Ooops! Easily solved though.

So once the skirt was finished, I realised I would need a black blouse to go with it. I bought some fabric and knocked one up pretty quickly, but soon discovered that the fabric was much too thick and had too much body to make an effective blouse. You live and learn.
So the next weekend I picked up some more blouse-suited black fabric with better drape, which looks pretty officey. The basic shape was easy as it seems to be drilled in my brain now, but I decided I wanted to try something a bit different and add a collar to this one. I was eager to make the collar from the same fabric as my skirt so I could be the coolest girl at work.

Bearing in mind I have never done a collar or really looked at any instructions on how to besides receiving a few words of advice from Shauni at Magnificent Thread, it came out okay.
I did the collar in two pieces instead of one, thinking this would probably be a bit more forgiving if the shape wasn't quite right. Turns out it meant one side was going to lie flat at the back and the other would poke up a bit. I put in a couple of stitches though and it seems to be ok now. The inside of the blouse will clearly show anyone who looks how not to attach a collar, but for as long as I have it on, that can be a secret between you and me. Next time I will actually follow a pattern and do it properly.

I fastened up the keyhole at the neck with a pretty button and loop.

Overall dead happy with the two garments, especially wearing them both together. I definitely want to practice collars so that I can just add them to everything!

x

Currently listening to Can't Speak French, Girls Aloud

Love Sewing Magazine/Simple Sew Lottie Blouse III

My third Lottie Blouse from Issue 2 of Love Sewing Magazine!

This is my favourite of the three! The fabric I chose has a slightly shinier quality and a bit more body than my viscose blouses. This is the closest thing I could find to a geometric pattern. Are they shells?

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Currently listening to Tak Shindo, Mwanza Market Place

Love Sewing Magazine/Simple Sew Lottie Blouse II

Lottie Blouse number 2! Failing again at my hunt to find some geometric fabric I settled for some bold floral viscose from the market in town.

I got the first half of the making done in an afternoon. What took the time was faffing about with the neck tie! Whichever way I did it I could NOT get it to line up properly and lie flat. In the end (after unpicking about 10 times!) I attached around the neckline using slip stitch first then did some funky folding over of the tie ends to try and make them lie flat! Not particularly professional, but I don't think you can tell unless you know!

I love working with viscose, despite it's fray-some qualities. I incorporated french seams again so hopefully don't have to worry about troublesome threads!

I'm working on number three as we speak then I promise it's time for another pattern!

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Love Sewing Magazine/Simple Sew, Spotty Lottie Blouse

I've seen some fantastic Lottie Blouses online after the pattern came free with issue 2 of Love Sewing magazine. Not wanting to miss out on the action I ordered a back issue for Christmas so that I could get cracking with my own.
After getting a new job in October I have been eager to make something I can wear to work. I'm really pleased with how my Lottie turned out!

I was looking for a chiffon type fabric, preferably black with some kind of geometric patterning on. My local fabric shops didn't seem too stocked on geometric chiffons! The closest we could get was a few bold florals but nothing was really floating my boat. In the end I settled on some black and white polkadot viscose at £3.99 p/m. Bargain!

The pattern is made up of front, back, sleeves, neck tie and a strip if bias binding for the dipped bit in the neck. The neck tie was meant to be longer but I couldn't fit a longer one on my fabric! Which is odd because the pattern states use 60" fabric and the neck tie is cut on the fold... But the pattern piece was 34" long! So clearly would not fit. As viscose is so dreadfully susceptible to fraying I opted for french seams. I was worried that this might make the blouse a little too small but looking at the measurements I was a borderline 8/10 any way so I risked it.

The hardest part of making was the neckline. The fabric was very difficult to cut straight as it is so stretchy! I attempted to sew on my binding around the lower part of the neck but it really wasn't catching the fabric properly! I decided to cut another strip, this time extending the width to 4.5cm. In hindsight this was probably a little bit too thick, I would maybe go for 4cm next time. I looks good from the front but not so much on the back. At least all 5 layers of fabric are stitched together right the way round!

I thought I might struggle a little with inserting the sleeves, but since getting a dressmakers dummy for Christmas I can see sleeves are going to be much easier! I wasn't looking for anything too poofy so I made sure they were gathered in gently.

Like many other bloggers I have seen who have made a Lottie, I attached the neck tie differently to how it suggested in the pattern. Much like the band on the Love Sewing magazine kimono I made I turned in a cm around each length then stitched the fold along one side to the right side of the neck. I then folded over the band and encased all raw edges. I did a slip stitch by hand (eek!) to catch the inside of the neck tie so no stitches were showing. I did this right the way around the neck but did topstitching along the bow part of the band, after sewing the diagonal ends right sides together then turning back out.

Then ta-dah! I turned up the hems and had my blouse! Test ran it to work today and it looked great tucked into my office skirt. Think it's my most wearable make so far!

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Panel Pants II

I've finally got round to photographing another pair of panel pants I made a few weeks ago!

Initially I wanted to overlay the black lacey fabric on top of the red velvet that I previously used on the front of my pants only this time use it as a back panel. I got everything cut out and was ready to sew together but I could NOT get the two layers of back, the gusset and the front layer to match up when sewing the main gusset seam! I attempted a few times but gave up before ruining all my pieces. I had stretched my front and gusset pieces out a little too much though, so I cut the bottom off and inserted a new middle/front piece which seemed to work.

My favourite thing about this pair was using the lace as the side panels. I used french seams to attach the side panels, they look neat but it made the elastic a bit lumpy when I attached it to the top. I finished them off with a little bow (pinched from a pair of Primark pants!). Yay

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