Sunday, 7 February 2016

New Look K6217, Moth T-Shirt

The final make of my sewing holiday was another New Look K6217 top. This easy, wearable pattern is my new go-to especially when fabric supplies are minimal!

It's really simple, and I didn't really make any changes to the pattern from the last two I made. A front and a back in two halves- this time utilising a centre-back seam to allow for a slight slit from the neckline, fastened up with a pretty button. I took extra care to make sure my moths on the two back pieces were all inline this time... Not like on my anchor top!

Hemming the sleeves was made easier with the aid of the overlocker- just turning under the overlocked edge and hemming down. Again the side and shoulder seams were french seams to avoid fraying.



Currently listening to: Speak Out Reach Out, Johnny Marr
Location: Milton Street Movie Park, Sheffield

New Look K6035, Vest top

Day 3! This was a prime example of spotting gorgeous fabric and buying it before having any idea what to make from it. My options were narrowed down by the fact this offcut from Abakhan's was only about a meter in length. Searching through my patterns I found a pretty vest top with central gathers that I could just about squeeze out of my fabric.

I was worried the gathers in the centre might sit a bit funny, so I faffed about with them for aaages before tacking them good and proper into place... I only found out after (when I actually read the instructions...) that I was meant to pull the gathering stitches to fit the length of the bias band round the neck and not just make a band to fit. Thankfully though, the amount of faffing paid off, and I'm really happy with the neckline.

Due to having minimal amount of fabric to play with, the bias band I made was out of two lengths and the shoulder seams of the vest top wouldn't line up with the joins in the binding. I don't think it notices when it's on though! I made sure the joins in the bias binding were symmetrical to each other. I'm quite proud of how neat it looks despite this.

I used french seams on shoulders and sides as the fabric is quite thin, and I turned the hem up twice, keeping it narrow. Another cute feature of this top is the little splits at the bottom of each side seam. Although not necessary for fitting purposes, they add another bit of interest to what was quite a simple pattern


Currently listening to: The Trap, Johnny Marr
Location: Milton Street Movie Park, Sheffield

New Look K6230, Raglan Sleeved Jumper

With the skills I'd learnt on Day 1 of my sewing holiday, Day 2 was a breeze!

Every time I'm out shopping I seem to pick up either a mustard yellow or an autumnal orange jumper, then put it back on the rack wondering if I'll ever actually wear something not black. This jersey fabric in Abakhan's jumped out as the perfect autumnal orange. I was immediately drawn to it's fluffy texture, knowing it could be just what I needed to keep my pesky chilblains at bay.

As luck would have it, the pattern in the current issue of Sew magazine was a long raglan-sleeved top which I knew teamed with my autumnal orange, could make a super cosy jumper.

I made a couple of alterations to the pattern. The first was to omit the centre back seam. I have no idea why it was there!?? Then I added a little to the seam allowances at the waist to add a bit of slouch-factor.
Inspired by my last make, I decided to draft a waistband and cuffs. I made sure the length of these were slightly shorter than the opening on the jumper, then matched up the midpoints as I overlocked band to garment.

The neckband situation was less stressful, perhaps as the band was thinner and the neckline was less baggy than that of the jersey top. Then my jumper was finished! It took about a day including tracing the pattern and cutting out. Using the overlocker to do all seams made for a very speedy process.

I quite fancy making a cropped version (Maybe adding the waistband on and not altering the length made this one a little too long?). Perhaps if I find some mustard yellow fluffy jersey I can get started on jumper number 2!


Currently listening to: Back In The Box, Johnny Marr
Location: Milton Street Movie Park, Sheffield

Love Sewing Magazine/Simple Sew, Jersey Top

Day one of my sewing holiday was dedicated to finally getting stuck in to the jersey top pattern that came free with issue 17 of Love Sewing Magazine. It's been on my to-sew pile for ages but have struggled to find the perfect jersey.
I struck gold on my recent trip to Abakhan Manchester, where I found they had some perfect stretchy off-cuts ideal for this pattern.

This was my first garment that included raglan sleeves. Armed with the overlocker, matching up the front and back with the sleeve pieces was a breeze, it was starting to look like a top in no time.
The instructions were a little bit vague, so when it came to finishing the arm holes I took my armband and attached it like a thick binding around the edge. The result was the sleeves were a bit too long and a bit too bulky. The armbands seemed a little too short and my stripes weren't matching up very well. With intention of revisiting this, I moved on to the waistband where I understood what I'd done wrong.

Again I found the waistband was a little shorter than the opening on my garment, and it clicked that I needed to sew on the bands the same way I would elastic- stretching it out and matching up midpoints on band and garment. Raw edges together, right sides together, I overlocked the folded band to the bottom of my top then turned the seam inwards. And yay! Perfect waistband! I hasity unpicked the dodgy sleeve ends and repeated the process.

My problem came when I came to do the same with the neck band. I found the same technique just resulted in the neck bunching up off my shoulders and the band standing up too proud. I unpicked and instead, overlocked the neck and folded under. The shape of the neckline was improved, but the result looked a little homemade.
My final attempt was to make a longer band which folded over and sandwiched the neck inside and didn't have to stretch to fit. Where the neckband meets the top looks much better, but i'm still not over the moon with how the neckband sits on the shoulders.

Overall, I love the fabric and the techniques I learnt (raglan sleeves/stretchy waistband), but I'm still not happy with the neck. I was scared to try anything else incase unpicking another time would start to show. If I make another I think it might be worth trying a thinner band to stop it from poking out on my shoulders.


Currently listening to: Sick, Duff McKagen's Loaded
Location: Milton Street Movie Park, Sheffield