Inserting Eyelets

There's no need to be scared of inserting eyelets. I was until I rocked up at my local fabric shop and asked if they had a tool I could put my eyelets in with. What I got instead was a full show and tell on how to insert them. The eyelets I had were Hemline 10.5mm. They didn't have an actual 10.5mm tool in the shop, so instead we tried an 11mm and it worked fine.
Here's how:

You will need-

Front Eyelet // Back Eyelet

Bottom Tool // Bopping Tool

1- Mark eyelet placement on fabric

2- Make a small hole by folding the fabric to a point and snipping


3- Place front eyelet into the hole, make sure the face of the fabric is face down

Back // Front

4- Slot front of front eyelet into bottom tool



5- Place back eyelet piece onto the back, ridge side facing the fabric


6- Place rounded end of the ‘bopping tool’ (!) onto the back of the eyelet



7- BOP! Use a hammer to hit the tool on top of a hard surface (I used an anvil)



8- Remove the tools… Mwah!



x

Currently listening to: Express Yourself, NWA

Inserting Poppers/Snaps Tutorial

Recently I had my first shot at installing some poppers instead of buttons onto a shirt. I've had a popper-putter-inner for a while now, but never had the guts to use it. I had a few practice shots and found the instructions to be a bit vague, so thought I would knock together a tutorial on how to attach snaps to your garment for my own benefit as much as anyone elses!

There are a few different ways you can put them in, but the most reliable way seems to be by using pliers designed for press studs, eyelets and piercing. There are various different press studs you can get- the ones in this tutorial are Prym Anorak poppers. If you're using a different sort please check your individual instructions as they may vary.

First you want to punch two holes in your garment where the press-stud is going to be, one for the top of the popper and one for the bottom. The placement should already be marked on your garment from your pattern.


The first tool you will need is this pair that come with the pliers themselves. The rounded tool (not the pointy one) can be used either way round for punching different width holes. I used the smallest size.


You won't need these punch tools again so you can remove them from the pliers. This handy blue tool comes with the pliers for removing the different accessories.



We are going to put in the top of the press stud first. For this you will need the white round plastic tool and the bevelled pointy metal one that come with the snaps.


We then need the top and bottom of the the top popper. The bottom piece slots nicely onto the bevelled tool in the pliers. The top piece is then placed into the white plastic.


This now needs lining up with the hole we punched on the part of the garment which will be showing (ie, top of the button placket, top of the pocket flap etc). Before squeezing the pliers I urge you to check you have got the top of the press stud on the top of the garment!! Close the pliers gently at first to make sure both sides match up nicely with the hole... Then squeeze!



The top of the popper is in! We are halfway there.


The tools in the pliers need changing to this one with a rubbery bit in and its inverted partner piece. We need the top and bottom bit of the bottom of the press stud, like so;


The bottom of the bottom of the press stud sits happily inside the rubbery bit of the tool.


The pointy bit of the press stud now inside the rubbery tool needs to be lined up with the hole in your garment. This bit will need to go on the back, so that the top of the bottom of the popper matches up with the back of the top of the popper when all is in place.


Line up the top of the bottom of the popper with the inverted bit of the tool then crunch down on your pliers! Your press stud is complete!


Overall, I found using snaps much easier than faffing about with risky button holes. What do you think? Does anyone have any experience with other types of press-stud? How did you get on?

x

Currently listening to: Lucky Man, Verve

Moving Bust Darts, Tutorial

This Wednesday will be my final session of a 9 week Pattern Drafting course lead by the wonderful Leann Marie Marshall here in Sheffield. It's been an absolute whirlwind of learning, every lesson has had it's very own lightbulb moment where something in my brain has clicked and I know I've just discovered a new lifelong skill.

I've learnt much too much to sum up in a blog post. We started off with taking measurements then following a guide with some crazy maths to plot out our very own block. We considered style lines to make our own design from the block then transferred onto pattern paper so we could cut out dress pieces to make our toile.
The block we created features a dart from shoulder to bust point. In later classes we played around with this dart placement to create different styles of bodice. So this is my quick guide to moving dart placement! I'm not sure if the same principles can be applied if the dart is in a different place to being with, but here goes....

*1. Trace bodice between current dart lines onto paper

*2. Cut out the shape (This involved cutting a straight line to join dart point to dart point)

(Imagine I haven't cut into this paper, that bit comes later)

*3. Draw on a straight line where new dart is to go. This could be from the side seam pointing diagonally or horizontally or potentially from the arm hole. This line should reach the bust point of the current shoulder dart

(For this example I have decided to create my new dart from the armscye)

*4. Cut along new dart line to make two pieces

*5. The bottom piece stays fixed in the original position. Move the top piece to meet the outer dart line of the shoulder dart. This will open up a new space. Make sure the bust point stays fixed.


*6. Trace the new piece as a whole (inc. neckline right up to centre front) to create a new pattern piece. Trace the space of the new dart, *but move back the bust point by about 2cm*. Add a little triangle at the side seam of the dart to ensure there is enough fabric to meet the seam allowance. I just guessed the angle of my triangle and it seemed to work! What I mean here is maybe a little clearer in my last image.

*7. Cut out the new shape. Yay! You've moved your dart placement! Welcome to an endless world of potential!!

Here I have cut out the darts and separated the pattern with a curve to make a side panel. Don't forget to add seam allowance to these pieces!

For this piece the dart was moved to the under arm side seam for a traditional looking bust dart. You can see what I mean about adding a little triangle at the end of the dart at the side seam, and the point of the dart is 2cm back from the original bust point.
I've marked on the bust line from my block- as you can see it goes a bit crazy but once the fabric is sewn this line appears horizontal on the body... Magic!

It looks a bit daunting but it really isn't! Once your know your bodice fits there's a whole world of dart moving fun to be had! I have just toiled up my first self-drafted dress using an armscye dart/panel design and it's looking really good! Dying to share it with you but it's still top secret!

Please let me know if there's anything I could have made clearer and I'll try my best to explain. If there's a pattern drafting class going off in your area I strongly encourage you to sign up. If you are in or around Sheffield I suggest you get in touch with Leann with the details on the flyer above as she has been absolutely outstanding.

x

Currently listening to: Tumbleweave, Black Moth