Sunday, 3 August 2025
McCalls M8009, Dress hack
My last few projects have slowly been using up the fabric stash I got for my Birthday this year. The final fabric in the bag was this lovely mini-polka dot crepe. Being a May-child, I was inspired by the sunshine when I found this fabric and recall telling the lady at the counter that I was going to make a summer dress when she asked.
Fast forward to the middle of September, and I'm wearing said summer dress at my friend's wedding on what was definitely the last day of summer 2024.
I'm so glad I got chance to wear this this year before the climate becamen unkind to that deep v-neck! I even got to pair this dress with my sunnies for the day which ensured the DJ knew for sure (and woudn't stop telling me) that I was the coolest there.
The dress pattern relied heavily on the M8009 McCalls play suit pattern, which I have made twice now. My skeleton version if one of my favourite makes ever and I was excited that I wouldn't have to make summer dress toile to know this bodice would fit me well. I made all the same alterations as before, though did find myself needing to take the side seams in more than I did last time which I assume is down to the drape of the fabric.
I didn't interface the bodice or even the neckline, as rigitity isn't a word that goes hand in hand with languorious summer's day. Don't go thinking I skipped detail though. I understitched, I hand stitched the arm binding, I even added my first lil Made With ❤ woven tag into the back neck.
The skirt pattern was as simple as using the pattern piece I used for my recent Serena Dress hack. As the skirt is gathered at the waist, I just kept gathering until it fit the waistline of the dress. I left just over 1.5cm un-gathered at the centre back so I could fit the zip without any dramas.
After assembling, I decided to make the dress a bit shorter so it looked a bit less 50s housewife. I think I took a couple of cm off max, as I know what I'm like once i get snap-happy with the scissors!
A quick single turned hem allowed the dress to remain floaty and not too heavy in keeping with the summer vibes!
Currently trying to figure out if I can team this with something long sleeve or some thick tights to get some more wear out of it before next summer!
Another fab pattern from McCalls!
x
Location: Tideswell
Currently listening to: Again Again, Lady Gaga
Saturday, 5 July 2025
Vikisews, Sylvie Dress
The Sylvie Dress was my first Vikisews pattern. I was attracted to its shirt-style collar, shapely cuffs and crossover skirt. What almost put me off was the crossover top, as historically crossovers have always resulted in a fail when it came to fitting due to my small bust. Every crossover top pattern I've ever looked at has gaped like hell and risked flashing anyone within a 100m radius.
So what was different this time? Well after making some successful fitting alterations on a few tops and toiles over the past couple of years, I was certainly feeling more confident. I also recognised the loose fit of the top of the dress allowed for a certian amount of play when fitting. The pattern was well illustrated and I was excited to find after downloading the instructions, that the steps were clear and it also instructed when the best time to overlock the edges was.
I made a toile from an old bedsheet, orignially cutting the bottom a size up from the top, and grading out at the waist for the two pieces to join.
The overall fit wasn't bad, but the top looked really roomy, as predicted, and I coulf pinch a good chunk out of the neckline. The top is gathered around the front and back waist, which added loads of extra fabric into the front. I found that the amount I pinched out was equal to the amount I added in to grade the two sizes together! So that came back off immediately, and that allowed for the gathers to be omitted from the front pieces, therefore making the top less balloony. Vikisews uses a 1cm seam allowance, but I increased this to 1.5cm from the underarm to the elbow on the sleeve pieces as they were also a little too spacious.
With the chunks from the neckline pinned out, I could see that if I increased the seam allowance where the front met the yoke at the shoulder, the fabric would sit much more comfortably over my bust and to my waist. Although it sounds like I took out a lot of fabric, the dress is still a loose fit and definitely doesn't feel too tight in any way.
The skirt is a lovely shape, I adore the pleat at the side that allows for the lovely fabric drape effect. This compliments the pleats at the underbust really well. I made no adjustments to the fit of the skirt. I was particularly happy with the dart length in the back.
I had my eye out in Berlin for some fabric to bring back. We found an epic looking fabric shop but sadly it was closed for the bank holiday on the day we were passing. There was 'Stoffe' shop we visited that had a good variety, I was particularly keen on a green and white summer style fabric they had but at the time I didn't know how much fabric I would need or how I would get it home.
For my annual birthday-trip to Hillsborough Fabrics with my mom, we found this lovely green and white fabric that reminds me of that in Berlin! Discussing with Jen, my internet sewing freind in Arizona, I think the fabric is a rayon? It drapes really well anyway, has absolutely zero weight to it and barely creases. It is super super static though so that is one thing to be aware of. The fabric had less body that the old sheet I made my toile out of, but I still wanted to go ahead, and also hoped that more drape would mean the top would look more shimmy than boxy if it was still a little roomy in places.
As I mentioned before, the instructions are really thorough and well crafted. The steps to ensure stability and a neat finish are all really clear. Following these steps definitely allowed for me to create the tidiest collar I have ever made. With the instructions leading me, I also went ahead and used 'burrito' method to attach the yoke and the 'stitch in the ditch' method to secure the underside of the collar and cuffs instead of slipstitching by hand as I usually would.
The placket is created by securing a neckline facing to the inside, however I thought the neckline would look more chic without the rows of stitching in the front securing the placket, so I kept this strictly as a facing. I was also worried that securing down would interfere with the bust pleats. I'm surprised more people online haven't dont the the same as I think it does make for a really lush neckline.
Let's talk about overlocking with rayon. I would describe this fabric as bendy. A little bit slippery and not in the least bit keen to be pulled through the churning and chopping of the overlocker. I have used tissue paper as a backing when using the normal sewing machine with thin fabrics and lace, but I have never used it on the overlocker. The desired effect was reached- the tissue paper eases the fabric through the machine, making sure stitches are even, the knife cuts smoothly, and the curves of my skirt pieces weren't compromised. What it also meant, was that I would have to spend a painful amount of time using tweezers to pull out scraps of tissue paper from inbetween stitches. This was one of the reasons I hadn't overlocked using paper before BUT it was so effective and saved what I imagine would have been floods of tears, recutting skirt pieces and cheating with a zig zag stitch. I certainly refined my tweezing approch by the time the dress was done!
Changing the front piece where it joined the yoke meant that I needed to take out the same amount from the front sleeve to sense they still fit in the arm holes. Usually the back sleeve has more fabric in it than the front but this didn't seem to evident on the pattern piece, so this convinced me that I had made the right decision. I hadn't tested the new sleeve shape on my toile as I was pursaded by my logic that this was the right thing to do. There was a slight bit of fear that the sleeve head would be too tight for movement if I took too much out - but I am realllly happy with this alteration! I have full movement of my arms but they don't feel too baggy.
I'm happy with the way my front pleats hang- my first attempt however did leave my in massive doubt. They hung sloppily and lost all their shape and for a moment I was convinced crossovers and me were never meant to be. I unpicked and restitched the pleats. Although they looked fine flat, I thought there was more I could do to ensure they held the correct shape. I pressed all the fold lines of each pleat before re-tacking them and stitching them down into the waist seam. I was so pleased that this made all the difference. I learned always press your pleats before even pinning them!
The cuffs were a big draw for me - The instructions taught me pressing magic that somehow 12 years into sewing I was yet to discover. The result was a pair of really crisp looking cuffs, wonderfully understitched, neatly attached to the sleeve and with cute (equal shaped!) button loops. The buttons were a lucky find in the stash from my Gran's old sewing stuff. I love the quirky shape, and they were in a 2 already so I didn't feel like a I was depriving a future shirt from a full set of buttons by pinching 2 for this project.
I cut no corners with this dress and I think it shows. There were only a few areas I stumbled on that I thought the pattern could have improved on:
1- Not using double notches in the back of the sleeve head? This made it a little tricky to know fore sure you'd got the sleeves in the right side
2- Placing the front pieces in the right place to ensure the correct crossover. I think this was a fluke as mcuh as anything, as I lost what notch was meant to be matching what. I'm not sure if this was because I was grading between 2 sizes / because I took some fabric from the side seams? I also had to double, triple check that I had the correct front piece on the top and correct front piece on the bottom - easy to get in a twist here!
3- The zipper. The pattern calls for an invisible zip, but the instructions to insert it just seem to use a regular zip foot? I wasn't sure how possible it was to insert an invisible zip the normal way if the top and the bottom of the seam already sewn? I had to do some Googling, and though no one else seemed to be asking the same question, I did find out that sewing it with the regular zipfoot to keep it in place before securing close to the zip teeth helped keep the ends right where they needed to be, making the start and finish of the seam look, well, seamless.
My least favourite part of the construction was probably the sleeve binding. The thin little strip of fabric has to be attached with minimal seam allowance to the fraying slit (note to self - name of my next punk band right there). Its fiddly, the bias strip is bouncy and stetchy and getting twisty with each attempt! But! I managed it and with my new 'stitch in the ditch' confidence, I feel like these sleeve bindings are more secure than any I have sewn before.
The attention to detail in this pattern, the cut, the style and the slickness of the instructions make for a super satisfying make. I am absolutely in love with this dress! I am really excited to venture into more of Viki's patterns if they are all as well crafted as this one.
x
Location: Stannington
Currently listening to: Talking in My Sleep, The Slims
Sunday, 8 September 2024
Simple Sew Patterns, Serena Dress
I wanted to make something light and floaty and this pattern and fabric combo definitely hit the spot. The pattern is the Simple Sew Serena dress, however I've modified it in a few places - most notably the length 😜
The fabric is this super duper lush silk crepe de chine from Minerva 😍😍😍 Obviously I was first drawn to it's safari style print, then browsing the Minerva site I got super excited about its evident drapey qualities. I wasn't disappointed when this arrived.
The silk crepe de chine was quick to dry, easy to iron and press, reluctant to fray unless you really ragged it around, easy to cut without it going wavy and easy to maniplulate. Literally an absolute dream to handle! The only thing I struggled with with this fabric was fusing interfacing - the interfacing seemed very reluctant to stick to the fabric, and if I applied more heat the fabric did seem prone to shrinking a little - just something to keep in mind!
Lets just go back to the print design, I love the simplicity of the line and the two tone black and faun kind of colour. I can feel a bit exposed in lighter colours, but this off white compliments my skin tone a little more and creates the safari vibe! Leaf prints are very on-trend right now, and who doesn't love a tiger 😍🐯
On to the pattern adjustments - I had made this pattern 2x before, but I found both dresses are looking a bit worn and have a slight fit issues that I wanted to address this time round.
Firstly, I committed a second dart to the bodice from the arm scye. Ive snook this on as an after thought in the past so knew it needed to be there from the start this time. With this in mind, I thought I would need to add a little length onto the bottom of the side of the bodice to make up for the fabric the dart took up. I then added this length onto the side panel and back piece to keep it even (I later found I'd over compensated somewhere as the bodice and side panel met at a bit of an angle that I needed to amend when I tried it on...).
I noticed a bit of gaping at the under arms on the side panels of my last attempt, so I squeezed out a 1-2cm triangle at the top of the panel pattern piece before I recut. This just meant I needed to slightly true the curve at the underarm when I cut the piece.
The back of the dress is made up of a shirred panel. I highly recommend drawing the lines on to follow first! In the past I have used the foot-width as a guide, but it all gets a bit crazy and wavy after you've added 4 lines of shirring, so it's best to follow a guide. The pattern has the shirring at 1.5cm intervals - I would probably change this to 1cm in the future to give it a bit more spring.
I used the folded over top edge of the backpanel to insert a piece of flat elastic. This wasnt included in the pattern, but either my shirring elastic was getting a little old (anyone know the lifecycle of shirring elastic??), or I could have done with some more lines, as the panel wasn't quite as 'grabby' as I would have ideally liked. To combat this, I did make the panel 10cm shorter before attaching into the side back seeam. The elastic worked well though, and I think I would include this next time just to add a bit more stability to the back.
To further increase stability, I interfaced the straps and the front and side of the bodice. The fabric is really light and a bit see through and I didnt want the piece I'd used as lining to show through.
I slightly altered the bust darts - The still start and end at the same place, but instead of looking like pyramids, they look like houses with rooves! I'm sure there's a name for this?? Essentailly the lines change angle half way up before they meet (creating the 'roof'!).
The adjustments I made made for a much better fit this time around! If I make Serena again, I would move the front straps inwards a little as they do sit a little bit wide on me, but I'm really really happy with the fit, particularly the bust darts.
I was terrified that the overlocker would mash up the fabric with it being so fine, but overlocker and fabric were both very well behaved. I finished the dress with a lovely little narrow hem that keeps it light and airy, washed off my water soluable pen marks from the back panel then I was out in the sun 😎
x
Location: Loxley
Currently listening to: Hot In The City, Billy Idol



















































