Grainline Studio, Archer Button Up Shirt

I've finally joined the Grainline Studio club! The Archer Shirt is my first Grainline pattern. I've seen so many Archer shirts on Instagram, I've been chomping at the bit to have a go at one for myself.

The fabric was some cheap plaid from Leeds Market from Sew Up North. My measurements matched an exact size 4 so I decided not to make a toile, but consider this as a wearable toile and make any adjustments as I went along. Lazy I know! But the shirt is loose fitting so figured there wouldn't be too many alterations to make.

I'd been putting off getting started for ages now because... Pattern matching! I love a good pattern match, but sometimes it's just damn daunting to get going! Cutting out took an afternoon, simply to get all those stripes lined up. So worth it though! Once you know all your pieces are cut out symmetrically, actually putting the shirt together is easier than if you were using plain fabric. I cut my cuffs and yoke on the bias just to avoid having to match, but I think it's nice to break the pattern up a bit! I originally cut the button placket on the bias too, until I realised that the placket on the left side is folded over from the actual front piece- therefore only the other side would have diagonal checks on once I'd attached the bias-placket to the right. I don't really get why the two fronts are done differently? I have both folded over the front to make a placket and added an additional band on in the past... But never one of each on the same shirt! It's important to bear in mind that right front will be on the top- so you want this placket piece to be cut from a piece of fabric that won't clash. I made sure that my horizontal lines matched up and continued across my chest.

Talking of horizontal lines, I also had the protractor out when I cut my sleeves! I wanted to make sure that all horizontal lines were at a right angle to the grainline and therefore should (!) meet at the seam line. I still find figuring out the match at the shoulders where sleeves join the bodice really hard. I think I did an alright job here, it certainly doesn't look bad.

Sleeves were the only alteration I had to make on the shirt. I'd put them in and they were sitting neatly but the shoulders were about 1-2cm off my shoulder point. I kept telling myself I could live with it and it wouldn't notice when it was finished. So I went ahead and overlocked the sleeves in. The shirt didn't look cute and oversized like I'd nabbed it from my boyfriend though (shush with your imaginary boyfriend jokes guys), it just looked well... Ill fitting. I unpicked the overlocking (ouch) and my stitching between the sleeve notches and moved the sleeve head in a bit to bring it back up to my shoulder point. It worked and I was very relieved! It might be worth me making a size smaller in future so I don't lose that sleeve-head ease when shaving cms off my bodice shoulders.

Collar and cuffs were good fun. My tips for collars would be make sure your plaids are symmetrical, it will look a bit off if you have a big square chunk of plaid at one end but not the other. Stitching the collar to the shirt and collar stand it so much easier when you are working off one side and matching the other. I know it sounds like more work but trust me it's not!


Making the sleeve plackets was a fun little exercise. You have to be careful as you have to stitch really close to the edge when sewing the placket to the middle of the sleeve slit, but it all comes together in a moment of magic! I love the little diagonal cut aways at the cuffs and how neat my sleeve pleats are! I top stitched around the whole cuff just to keep it neat and professional looking. I would recommend this.

My hem was a bit shit. Why are my hems always a bit shit?! Am I rushing because I'm excited I'm almost at the end? The pattern suggests a double turned hem which is what I did, but its pretty curved so you just have to be careful. It's not awful and still has it's shape, it's the same length at both fronts so can't really grumble. Just try not to look inside ta.

I had to wait until the end for the most exciting part though. This was my first go at poppers!! I've had a popper-putter-inner since Christmas that I've just been too scared to use yet. I chose the 'Anorak' Prym poppers, mainly just because I liked the colour best. There's a few different ones to chose from for different fabrics so excited to get involved with that in the future. I picked my Prym supplies up from the market in Sheffield instead of John Lewis and it was much cheaper!

The instructions on the putter-inner and on the actual snaps don't go over the top in explaining how to not completely ruin your garment in the final stage, but there's a handy Prym video on Youtube that definitely helped. Before getting to it I did a test one on a piece of scrap, then wrote down all the stages just to test myself. Instead of going through it all now, I want to do a little tutorial blog on how to attach your snaps, so keep your eyes out!

A popper on each cuff and then she was done! I decided against pockets as I just didn't feel I needed them. If I make another I am tempted to use the pocket pattern from my Burda Button Up as I think those flaps look pretty cool and I remember them being fun to make.

For once, I've actually made something seasonal! I would love to make a lovely warm one with some proper flannel and maybe a fleecy inside collar stand for winter. As much as I love the box pleat in the back I could easily get away with taking this out and making the shirt a little more fitted around the small of my back. This pattern is so versatile! You could easily make a floaty office shirt using the Grainline Archer pattern too.

If you get stuck along the way there is a handy sew-along on the Grainline Website.

Have fun sewing! Would love to see what fabric you choose for yours.

x

Location: Miller's Dale, Derbyshire
Currently listening to: Outta My Mind, The Arcs