Kwik Sew 3764 Moto Jacket

It was the sheepskin I spotted at the Identity Store's last leather fair that inspired me to hunt down some faux sheepskin sherpa. As much as I loved the real deal on display at the fair, there just didn't seem to be enough to make the glorious lapels I was already dreaming of. I bought my faux sheepskin from Samuel Taylors in Leeds before I went to meet my friend for a festive weekend before Xmas. I chose the suede-backed variation as I thought the structure of it would be good for a jacket. I was a little concerned it might be too stiff, and decided it might not be possible to line a full jacket with it, but lapels and collar seemed like a good starting point.

Having made the Simplicity 1070 Jacket a long time ago now, I was very tempted to make another and add a few tweaks to encourage myself to wear it more. Once I started browsing moto jacket patterns online though, I found every company had their own take on a leather moto style jacket and I was too excited to not buy myself a new pattern. I decided on the Kwik Sew 3764 as it didn't look toooo hard but would still push me to try things I haven't done before, like open ended zips and inserted pockets. A quick browse through Instagram and Pinterest and I was falling in love with everyone's K3764s. The jacket looks totally wearable for any occasion, but also totally customizable by changing up fabrics and playing with contrast in those panels.

My next job was to find a fabric worthy of the pattern and my contrasting sheepskin lapels. This called for my annual New Year's trip to Manchester and a long overdue browse around Abakhan. I had been tempted by using leather or a suede for the jacket, but was a little scared to throw another tricky fabric into the mix. I was searching for a nice wool blend that would look good with the fleece, behave kindly towards me and not be too... bland?! I kept telling myself in my head to avoid plaid and avoid having to dedicate my entire weekend to pattern matching....

The fabric I decided on maybe wasn't far from plaid- I would still have to pay attention matching up both the horizontals and verticals in the design, but I was totally sold when I picked up this fabric and found it already had a fleece lining attached to the underside!!!! And it was sooo soft! Okay- so it lead to totally copping out of lining the jacket, but I couldn't hide away the lovely soft fabric!

The piece was an offcut from the stash baskets downstairs, but was 3m so I knew there would be plenty there to make sure I matched my checks up. There was a New Year 15% sale off, and I'd filled another row on my stamp card up, so I bought this, some chunky striped knit, some bias tape and elastic all for £20!! I thought she'd added it up wrong for a second! I bought 5 matching zips from the market when I was back in Sheff (x4 Jeans zips at 15cm and x1 open ended zip at 40cm) all in black and gold, and then I was fully stashed up and ready to go.

I'd made a cheeky muslin of the jacket before I'd collected my supplies so I knew what I was letting myself in for. I cut a Small and made no alterations to the pattern, it fit really well!! I held it in mind that I would need a little extra wiggle room in there for my fleece as it is so chunky, and I'd probably want to wear my jacket over a big jumper, so I made sure that particularly the shoulders didn't feel too tight and that there was enough room in the bust.

This also gave me good opportunity to practice making those pockets and imagine inserting those zips. I absolutely LOVED the satisfaction of sewing the pocket to the right side of the garment, cutting a slit down the centre and turning through to the wrong side... and wow! Super neat lil rectangular cutaways to warm your hands in! The pocket can then be hidden behind the lapel facing inside the jacket.

I spent a solid portion of my Saturday cutting out my fabric, making sure both my checks were matching and my fleece underside was all cut following the nap of the fleece. Sometimes having a linear print to work to really helps with ensuring that you are following the grainline of the fabric (I will often match the grainline marked on the pattern piece to the markings on the fabric), and this also helps with making sure the pieces you cut are symmetrical. I like to mark on the edges of my pattern piece with pen where the checks are so I can match these up when I flip the patten piece over and cut the other side. I made sure I was happy with my centre back placement (as there is a seam down the back that I didn't want to look weird), and tried hard as hell to make sure that the horizontals around the front panels, side panels and back panels all ran together nicely.

I was unsure at first if I should interface my sherpa. I was tempted not to at first as the suede back already added so much structure, and I really didn't want this to outweigh the rest of my jacket. Despite my main fabric being backed with a fleece it still wasn't super chunky like the sheepskin. I decided to use a lightweight white interfacing on the back of my sherpa and I'm really glad I did. It just added that extra bit of structure to the build of my lapels. It was also important not to forget the nap of the sheepskin, its subtle but I wanted to make sure it stroked the right way.

I added a medium weight facing in black to the pocket lining and the sleeve facing (where the zips are inserted) to make sure everything was solid. Instead of using a silky lining fabric, I decided to use the underside of my main fabric for the pocket bag, just so I could touch that lovely soft fleece! I cut my sleeve gussets with it in mind that I would use the soft side as the right side, so that you could catch a glimpse of the contrast when the zips were unzipped. I also totally loved how good the black looked against the gold zips.

The new skill of open ended zips was one of the first steps I had to tackle making the jacket. I don't know what I was so worried about! For a girl who's main zip experience has been invisible zips, this was a breeze! Just make sure you follow the placement instructions so that there is room at he bottom for the waistband to be attached etc, snap on your zipper foot and there is nothing to worry about!

The zipper placement for the pockets was slightly fiddlier. The zips are tacked into the gap then sewn in from the right side. My fabric was quite chunky, so really had to pay attention on making sure the stitching around the edge was even all the way round. I maaaay have had a couple of attempts at one side, but I'm super happy with the results. To ensure accuracy I had used a spiky rolling wheel and carbon paper to transfer the pattern markings onto the wrong side of the pocket and the front jacket. This meant that pinning the pocket in place just meant matching up the carbon paper lines then following on the machine.

Attaching the facings was probably my favourite part of making the jacket. That's when it really starts to look the way it did in my head! I was aware the seams were going to be pretty bulky, and as there was a fair bit of topstiching to do I was going to have to do something about it. I first tried using a razor to shave out the extra fluff from the seam allowances. This had minimal effect, probably because my old disposables weren't quite up to the job! I found the quickest way was to use my dressmaking scissors and just keep cutting away the fluff behind the stitch line until I was just left with the backing. This made topstitching 100x easier- I was unsure I was even going to the the fabric under the machine foor before!! Be warned this also makes a terrible mess! It looked like I'd been shearing sheep in the studio! Hehe.

To reduce bulk in other areas I pressed my side seams open (so overlocked these and the sleeve underarms prior to stitching together), and I pressed the centre back seam open- but decided to finish this with bias binding for a more professional finish. Luckily when topstitching the armholes, shoulder seams and front panel seams I didn't find bulk too much of an issue.


My wobbliest bit of stitching was thankfully well hidden within the sleeve gussets! The zips had inserted nicely (remember the zipper pull should be at the handhole... close call!) but I think I'd made things hard for myself by not using a thin lining fabric for the facing and the gussets. There is quite a lot of bulk in the zipper area, which I think is fine visually as the rest of the jacket is quite structured, it just made for some fiddly stitching getting the pieces sewn together!

I was a little bit worried that attaching the bottom band was going to be the downfall, as I would be sewing through several layers of fabric, including the sherpa. I cut the excess fluff from the seam allowance before sewing the seam to try and ensure it moved under the presser foot. I didn't have any massive problems with bulk, but it did become clear after doing a row of stitching that I would be better hand stitching the inside of the band to the inside of the coat and then topstitching the band, otherwise the first line of stitching attaching the two together was really obvious.


I was really glad I stopped and unpicked then did this, as it made the topstitching look much more consistent from both the inside and the outside and also meant I didn't have to rely on pins while I was sewing the band.

I was a little worried the band would look like I just couldn't be bothered to pattern match any more, as it would be impossible to match all the way round. I made sure my centre back was exactly in the middle of one of the squares, and I'm not going to lie- it was a total fluke that I had cut the band on a darker row of squares to follow the alternation of the colourway. I would definitely consider cutting this on the bias next time to eliminate having to consider matching. I would also use thicker interfacing- I did cut two pieces with the intention of doubling up, but I got so freaked out about bulk that I left it at one layer! I don't think adding in another layer of interfacing would have had bad repercussions, but sometimes it's really hard to tell how fabrics are going to behave together until you have them all stitched up.

The cuffs are hand sewn with a blind hem. They are meant to be turned under 4cm but I was a little worried the sleeves would be too short so I think I aimed to turn them under by about 3cm and hope no one noticed. Next time I think I will add a couple of cm into the sleeve length so my paws don't get cold.

To finish I used a black 15mm Prym snap on the bottom band. It might have been better if it was gold and 20mm but I didn't have any okay! And I was eager to finish! I think the black is subtle enough and matches the fabric so it looks fine!

I hope you like my jacket as much as I do! I'm super excited to wear it our and about (and a little nervous about ruining it somehow, you know I'm a bit clumsy right?!). What fabrics would you like to see next time? Should I dare to go leather? Or have some suede panels? I would love to see your moto jackets for inspo!

x

Location: Thornhill / Yorkshire Bridge, Derbyshire
Currently listening to: Guess Who's Knocking, Ryan Bingham

Simple Sew Miranda T-Shirt

If you know me, you've probably heard the story, I was about 23 years old and convinced this boy was going to dump me. Out of ways to keep him, my last hope was to casually psychologically trick him into thinking he needed me, by wearing a yellow vest top to what I feared would be our last date. Maybe something in his brain would associate me with yellow and yellow to happiness and sunrays, and in turn he would feel like I was a positive influence on his life.

Mental. I know it was mental, but that was 100% my thought process, and in the grand scheme of things probably the most gentle form of attempted manipulation that has ever existed. And you know what, he didn't dump me that day... He waited til the next date when I was wearing a houndstooth jumper and he remembered who I really was. Well, his loss eh, but the point I'm making, is that I have always been interested in colour psychologies. I remember once painting my nails green when I thought I was going to bump into an ex because google said it was the colour of Peace, and when the red underwear comes out you know I'm hoping it's going to be a good night. I'm still working hard on my fantasy to own a home with a yellow front door to match my little yellow car, to get home from work and feel happiness as I step through that door.

When winter rolls around you forget the smell of suncream and the feeling of sun on your skin. Everything is grey and bleak and it can be hard to snap yourself out of that depressing miasma. So I thought I would play the colour psychology game on myself.

By now you understand that I love the colour yellow, but It doesn't really feature too much in my wardrobe for fear of it making my skin look a bit of a funny colour. I had this yellow t-shirt jersey left over in my stash for a couple of years now. I've come close to chucking it twice but just haven't been able to. There wasn't a lot, but with a bit of careful pattern placement I thought I would be able to squeeze out a Simple Sew Miranda Tshirt - a quick and easy make to keep my creative juices flowing, in super bright yellow to lift my spirits. Win win.

For my previous Miranda t-Shirts I have used the smallest pattern size, but also taken a little more out of the side seams when it came to trying on. Due to fabric restrictions I knew I couldn't afford to mess about and would have to cut the right size the first time using as little fabric as possible. This meant working out the length of the t-shirt and sleeves before cutting out, and working out how much excess to take from the side seams without a chance to try on first. My yellow fabric was very stretchy so I knew I could get away with making the pattern a bit smaller.


Also I wanted to make a higher, rounder neckline (much safer than trying to get that chuffing V neck central haha!), so this meant that the neckband could be shorter.

I pinned the shoulders and side seams together after cutting out for trying on. I was super happy with the fit and found I could still take a little out of the side seams at the under arms to the waist just to make it a little tighter around the bust.

The fabric behaved well with ballpoint needles and didn't stretch out too crazy while sewing. I didn't have any clear elastic to add to the shoulder seams, but I'd been reading up on it and it's important to add a little stability to them (to stop your shoulders stretching out... Who'd have guessed?!). I had read that using a strip of non stretch interfacing can work too- just be careful not to use anything to thick to ensure there is no unnecessary bulk in the shoulders.


To ensure I made the neckband the right size it was a process of trial and error. I'd read a good starting point is to make the band 20% smaller than the neck hole and work from there. I pinned the neckband on at 20% smaller and it was still a bit loose. I think I took out a further 3-4cm before it lay flat. Any more and it would have definitely caused the shirt to pucker, so I'm glad I stitched when I did.

I used a twin ball point needle to hem the tshirt and the sleeves, making a 1.3(?) cm double hem around the bottom. It looked really neat! And the stitches still had the perfect amount of stretch to match the fabric... No thread popping when I lift this one over my head :)

I'm really pleased with my tshirt. It's everything I wanted it to be - comfortable, well-fitted, bright, a quick win and will go with pretty much every black/dark skirt/trousers that I own! I'm noticeably happier when I'm wearing it... So there's no need to assume I'm about to get dumped if you catch me out and about in it! ;)

What are your favourite colours to wear? Do you believe in colour psychology? Would love to hear about other people's relationships with colour

x

Location: Plum Lane Car Park, Sheffield
Currently listening to: Misbehave, High Hazels

McCalls M7575, Shirt

Sometimes I think I'm pretty poor at playing around with patterns to their full advantage. This is my fifth time making the McCalls M7575 shirt, but the first time I've decided to make the mandarin collar variation. I could happily have whizzed together another shirt collar variation but I thought it might be time to mix it up a bit.

I bought this fabric back in April on a fabric trawl in Leeds with my sewing buddy and style icon Charlotte from Scenes From the Sewing Room. I had either shirt of shirtdress in mind, but I loved the fabric so much I wanted to sick to tried and tested! Cowardly I know! But it has definitely encouraged me to add SHIRTDRESS to my must-makes for 2020.

The stripes took a billion years to cut out as usual, making sure that both sides of the shirt were super symmetrical. It's a pain cutting out but it really pays you back later when you start matching all your pieces up for stitching. And that feeling when your bust darts are pure symmetry!!! ❤️❤️❤️ I love the varying widths of stripe on this print creating that barcode effect! The stripes also help with cutting out and sewing the plackets on to the shirt. Just follow the straight line of the stripe. Easy!

I think I may have picked slightly too heavy a interfacing for the placket though, as it stands a little proud when I sit down etc. Next time I'm only going to interface half of the placket okay!! In contrast to this, the collar could have done with both the inside and outside pieces interfacing, as it really relies on that structure to keep it's shape. Neither things have been too disastrous though, the shirt is still comfy and fits well so I think only a trained eye (or those of you reading this!) will spot the interfacing issue.

I'd been looking forward to finally getting these buttons into action. Bought on the same shopping trip to Leeds their little Aztec-style details really adda flash of interest down the centre front. Definitely worth checking out the button selection in Samuel Taylor's if you're looking for some glammy buttons.

There is a reason this pattern is such a go-to for me. This shirt will be perfect for office days and for nights out with pals. It's the perfect length for tucking in, I can't wait to have a play around with this pattern to make myself the ultimate shirtdress for 2020 :)

x

Location: R.A.G Vintage, Norfolk Street, Sheffield
Currently Listening to: Desire, Josefin Ohrn and the Liberation

Butterick 5895, Shirt

What came first, the pattern or the fabric? This was a classic case of falling for some fabric in Abakhan but without a real plan of what to do with it. What's not to love about this tiger print though!!

Too good to risk on a pattern that hadn't been tried and tested, it was a toss up between the McCalls 7575 shirt (great for work, tucks in nicely to jeans) or the Butterick 5895 shirt (retro vibes, cute tie waist, cheeky flash of abs). Already having got 4 McCalls 7575s hanging in the wardrobe and only one Butterick 5895, and despite the lack of appropriate weather to wear it, I opted for the tie waist shirt... I promise it's not just because 6 pattern pieces to cut out seemed more appealing than the 17 for the button down shirt!

It was super quick to cut out seeing as I didn't need to match the pattern and could cut out the three pieces with the fabric doubled. The pieces are such a funny shape, it's really exciting watching them turn into a shirt!! I used a lightweight iron on interfacing on the facing as my fabric is quite light, and there's not much strain on the button area. Also the tie front needs to be drapey enough to make a nice knot.

As the front and sleeve is cut all in one, there is some clever shaping from both a bust dart and a sneaky shoulder dart that reduces the roominess in the bust. I was a little worried that I would wish I'd taken a bit more in to make the chest a little tighter, but as this fabric is a little lighter than that of my previous, the drape is a little nicer in the sleeve to bust area.


The fiddliest bit of making this shirt is definitely the neck area. It requires you to reinforce corners at the dots and then snip upto the dot to get the perfect angle where the collar meets the shoulder. With all the reinforcing stitching and the stay stitching, it's important everything is really neat at these pivots or you risk your stitches showing on the shoulder. Luckily though, the collar does flap over this join, so as long as everything is flat and you don't accidentally create a tuck on one side of the stitching you should be okay.

I love the way the collar crosses over at the back. It's a really cute design feature but also its a lot easier attaching this than adding a separate collar would be! It then folds out into super cool retro-looking lapels. It think my pattern placement could have been a bit smarter as one side of the blouse looks a little tiger-lite compared to the other, but that's always the gamble when cutting on the fold. I think there's enough going on with the shirt as a whole for it not to be too noticeable though.


I understitched the facing of the lapels as far as I could go, taking extra care to try and match where I started on each side as I knew this would be visible. This helps keep the facing in place so that the collar looks really neat. My favourite bit is probably clipping the curves, trimming the corners then turning that facing to the inside and revealing those lovely ties!

I did a narrow hem on both the bottom back and the sleeves (the front is encased by the facing)- overlocking the edge, turning up once and then stitching at half the width of my foot.


The last step was of course the trickiest... Buttonholes! Ahhh I do hate making button holes! And my machine doesn't seem to enjoy it either which doesn't make the process any more enjoyable.

I found these cute buttons in my gran's old button stash. Usually I'm rooting round in there for hours trying to find a set to match! But luckily this time these 4 were all ready and waiting for me. I thought the colour was a little bit unusual, but a little bit regal and a compliment to some of the greeny-blues in the print. My buttonholes were perhaps a millimeter or so too tight but they are all perfectly straight and in the right place so I don't care! The fit of the shirt allows for the buttons not to be under too much strain so they sit very happily :)


Typically, I've made a very seasonally inappropriate shirt! It's a bit cold around the midriff haha, but I guess the great thing about this shirt is you can team it with a vest top for some extra coverage.

I love how the tiger print work's with the 50s vibe of the shirt. I could quite happily make myself a whole army of Butterick 5895s for any occasion! I've seen a few gorgeous ones online in ginghams all ready for strawberry picking in summer.

I'm ready for Spring now please!


A big thank you to FYD Tattoo parlour for letting me take some snaps in-store! Their digs are very aesthetically pleasing! We also took a few shots at Mr Personality on Woodseats - How beautiful is their tiger!

x

Location: FYD Tattoo, Devonshire Street Sheffield
Currently listening to: Last Ride, Tiger Army