I have made many friends through using the app - I was very excited when one of which announced she would be starting her own pattern range STITCH WITCH PATTERNS. Madeline's style is not dissimilar to mine, a little bit spooky, a little bit retro, a little bit flirty, not to mention her solid fringe and winged eyeliner combo. When the Bathurst Top pattern was released I knew I needed to get in on the action.
The pattern is made up of five pattern pieces; front, back, front facing, back facing and ties. The back is split into two and joined only by the ties. The cut of the open back is totally gorgeous; open enough to drive the boys wild but enough coverage to allow for movement and not have to worry about flapping open. This flash of flesh in contract with the high front neck really makes for the perfect combo. There is an option for a slightly longer version included in the pattern- I've seen a few seamstresses share theirs on insta and the way the longer version flares out over the hips below the ties looks so lush!
I made a calico muslin - the form of the top lends itself to fabrics with a bit of body to them to keep the structure of the back pieces, so calico seemed like a good place to start. My measurements matched up really well to the size 6 on the pattern. The fit was really good on me, although a little too tight above the bust. With some time on my hands thanks to lockdown, I thought I'd have a go at my first full bust adjustment (never had to do one of those before haha!) to see if that would fix the issue.
I learnt a lot- I now feel very confident in what needs to be done to add room to the bust using the slash and spread method, however the overbust was still pinching and the bust now looking a bit loose! I reverted back to the original pattern piece. My plan this time add 1cm to the CF (so 2cm on total when placed on the fold) and then if too loose on the bodice below the bust I could take the additional width out of the side seams. The 2cm added the fabric I definitely needed across my chest. My bust darts were just slightly pointing to the wrong area of my chest though. It was easy to see where they should naturally finish, so I marked this point on the toile then drew the new dart point onto my paper pattern. I watched a lengthy but fab video on how to move bust dart placement by Made To Sew, but in the end went for the simpler (cop-out) adjustment, using the same dart starting point at the raw edge and redrawing the dart legs to meet the new point I had drawn. This slight alteration did affect the matching up of the wide dart legs ever so slightly, however having got the additional cm on either side seam from the additional 2cm I added to the centre front, it meant I had a bit of fabric to comfortably play with below the dart, and I could easily manipulate the fit.
The only other thing I did that wasn't in the pattern was topstitch the ties. The only fabric I had in the house that suited the pattern and didn't have too much stretch was this wool blend (?), perhaps slightly upholstery-ish fabric, which due to its raised nap created quite bulky seams. Topstitching around the ties meant that they kept their shape and looked much neater. Due to the bulkiness of the seams I also understitched the centre back facing down to the top of the ties. I did a fair bit of seam allowance hacking to reduce as much bulk as possible, particularly where those seams intersected.
I love it! I love the plain black fabric and the simple shaped front, then whoooooooa, that back!!! I love that I had chance to play around and learn new fitting techniques.
I'm really excited to see what else Stitch Witch Patterns has in store for us. By the looks of it on Insta the sewing community is already going nuts for Madeline's new venture. I'm so happy I can now join in on the #Bathurst action!
Big love and spooky kisses,
Location: Lower Broomhill and Botanical Gardens, Sheffield
Currently listening to: Master Pretender, First Aid Kit
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