McCalls M7726, Paperbag Trousers II

I'd booked sometime off and didnt want to spend it faffing with patterns I would need to alter. McCalls M7726 was recently tried and tested by me and I knew that although the make required attention to detail structurally, I'd already got the fit right, meaning I could relax and get on with the fun part.

I bought this fabric at the same time as the blue fabric with these trousers in mind. I think both together cost me less than £15 from the fabric shop in Hillsborough. The only other thing I needed was a 9" zipper and a hook and eye bar closure for the top of the fly. These hooks and eyes come in twos at my local market!

The grey fabric actually yeilded better results as it is much less prone to creasing, making for a much smoother look after Ive been sitting at my desk all day.

This time I overlocked my leg seams all in one and pressed to the back instead of doing them separately prior to assembling and pressing them open. I feel like this resulted in better accuracy as none of the fabric had been shaven off by the overlocker before stitching the seams together.

I am particularly pleased with my blind hem on these trousers. The fabric pressed really well and it was perfect for secretly hand sewing the invisible seam. I gained the same level of satrifaction topstitching my pleats this time round as I did on my blue pair. There is just something so lovely about knowing those pleats are FIXED. Beltloops also so so pleasing, there's something about weaving a shop bought belt through them that feels almost tricksy haha!

Due to the drape of the fabric this time I didn't think it was neccessary to take any of the fabric out of the side seams. They could get away with being slightly more tapered, but I think they currently look quite balanced. I didn't want to risk over-fitting the legs and then finding the pleated area looked a bit poofy.

I would however like to get some more experience in making fitted trousers so I'm now on the hunt for a simple (- but not boring!) trouser pattern that relies less on pleating, gathering , elastic or drawstrings and more on just getting that perfect fit. Any ideas?

x

Location: BUNK, Carver Street
Currently listening to: Laughing Willy, Jeremy Ivey

Simple Sew, Lena Wrap Dress

The Lena Wrap dress is a circle skirt dress featuring a faux crossover top and a coice of three sleeve variations. There is a contrast band at the bottom of the skirt, but I decided to trace this onto the bottom of my pattern as I didn't have any contrast fabric but didn't want the dress to be too short.

I knew I would have to make some alterations to the pattern, as ever crossover top I have ever attempted has always been too roomy in the bust leading to gaping at the neckline. I took a wedge out of the front of the pattern, altering the angle of the shoulders and overall meaning there was less fabric between the neck and the point where the crossover meets.

After this I had to alter the ansle of the bust dart a little. To do this I unpicked the dart on my toile and then pinched the fabric from the side seam towards the bust point anf pinned. I could then transfer this new dart position onto my paper pattern, ensuring the lines met at the new bust point.

For me the process of getting the fit right was very trail and error, even after making a couple of toiles I was getting frustrated with my lak of clear direction in my ad-hoc alterations. I had an enlightening moment though, when I remembered the playfulness of the Sewing Bee contestants when completeing the Transformation Challenge. I altered by approch and took pleasure in manupulating the shape- taking bits out here and there until the dress started to resemble my body shape!

There were a few niggles with the pattern - I accept it's my small bust that lead to the gaping neckline, but there are no notches on the armholes for setting the sleeves in and there are notches marked on the foldline of the waistband!! Thankfully I was paying attention when cutting out my fabric and I didn't snip these in or I'd have had notches on the centre front and centreback of my waistband.

I made the bodice a little shorter- In hindsight I should probably have added a little extra length to the bottom of the waistband to accomodate for this. Like many of the bloggers who have tried this pattern, I also decided to stitch up the centre front of the wrap dress to er, keep everything in place.

Confession time! I didn't line the bodice! If I'd have had a perfect fit, lining the bodice would have given a beautiful finish and would have helped to support the weight of the circle skirt. Once I'd finished hacking bits off of the side seams and armholes, the last thing I wanted to do was replicate this on a lining piece! Instead I folded under the neck opening by 1.5cm and stitched around the neckline.  

Despite the rather haphazzard nature I put the dress together I do quite like the silhouette of the finished thing. I tried really hard to keep all the chaos on the inside! To finish I took about 1.5 inches off of the length and did a tiny narrow hem. Next time I will do a bit more research on how to do a small bust alteration on a wrap dress so that I feel more confident in my alterations, but I am more than happy with this as a starting place.

x

Location: Endcliffe Park/Ecclesall Road, Sheffield
Currently listening to: Moi Je Joue, Brigitte Bardot

McCalls M7726, Paperbag Trousers

The Pattern

Full length or shorts variation, wide ot narrow leg. The main feature of these trousers is the pleated waistbandwith 8 pleats in total to create a paperbag-style top. There are three belt loops (though I guess you could add more), allowing for the opportunity to accessorise with any belt, and lovely deep pockets so you can carry all your essesntials.

The Process

The pleats are the most iportant area to get right, as they will determin where abouts on your hips the trousers wil sit. My first toile turned out to be massive! So I scaled down to a size 10. The only changes I needed from there were to narrow the lefs a little, though I think you don't want them to be too narrow, as the pleats create a lot of butt/though room where they are released and you don't really want to create a narrow/wide/narrow silhouette that could end up looking a bit... farmer!?!

The pleats being the main visual feature also means You should pay close attention to getting them perfect! I would recommend not skipping any of the tacking steps as they really add to the accuracy of the pleats. The top stitching is also essential to get that professional finsih as well as adding an extra level of reinforcement.

To add to the structure of the trousers I added a light interfacing to the fold-over area of the waistband. It doesn't need much, but I found it really helped to define the pleats.

This pattern was my first go at making a fly zip. I waqs a bit intiidated to start with but if you follow the instructions and your fabric is as well behaved as mine it's simple enough. I used carbon baber and tracing wheel to transfer all the pattern markings to the fabric so there was as little toom for error as possible. There are a lot of fold lines and stitching lines to follow so it's important to get everything lined up correctly. 

The Fabric

I chose a plain fabric with it in mind that the trousers would look really classy with a simple belt to help accentuate the waistine created by the pleats. I do think if you can be bothered with pattern matching, plaid or checks would look really awesome too- though they would definitey highlight a dodgy pleat!
My fabric was less than £5 a meter, I bought 2 meters but could have got away with less. 

The Finished Product

Wearable trousers that fit, suitable for dressing up or dressing down! The legs are still a bit wide so instead of just increasing the seam allowance I will look at taking some more out of the pattern before I cut my next pair. The shape is great and I love the paperbag-style top. Fit-wise they don't feel too tight around the the bum or crotch and the pockets are so practical too. 

I assume taking a little less in at the pleats would allow the trousers to sit a little lower on the waist if you were less of a fan of the high-waisted look.. but I dig it!

x

Location: o2 Academy, Sheffield

Currently listening to: Love and Pride, King

Simplicity 8529 Jumper

 I knew from the moment I saw this fabric that I wated to make a chunky, slouchy, 'I'm welcoming Autumn!' jumper, with a slight flare of fisherman-chic to it.

It was a toss up between patterns- I was keen on the Tilly and the Buttons Nora jumper, both patterns feature dropped shoulders for that snuggly look, but the all-in-one neck of the Simplicity 8592 pattern was what swung it for me. 

The fabric was an Abakhan off-cut so I was quite liited to how much I could play with the pattern placement. I would perhaps have preferred the blue stripes at the neckline, but this was a small sacrifice to make to ensure my sleeve and side seams all matched up... Symmetrical heaven! I am so pleased with the stripe matching at the seams, especially as I'd suffered a finger injury a week before making and my dexterity was still slighty compromised! 

The cuffs and bottom band are great because they are aboue the same size as the sleeve/bottom of the jumper, therefore you don't have to stretch out the bands too much as you sew. This reduces ballooning around the openings but also adds a cosy, sturdy finish to the jumper, making it draught-free for windy Autumn days! 

As the pattern is not fitted, I think it oculd have looked better with a drapey-er fabric- the neck is quite bulky and I prefer to fold it back on itself inside again to I don't look trapped! I love the snuggliness of the jumper though so definitely glad I shose to pair this pattern and fabric. The pattern features different neck and hem variations so there's plenty of options to play with next time. 

I made a size 10 and I think this was the best cut for me. I would make again! Let's face it, I will probably make a few in subtley different striped fabrics! Its quick to come together and doesn't require too much concentration... or finger dexterity apparently!


x

Location: Tinsley Canal, Sheffield
Currently listening to: Everything Counts, Depeche Mode

Simplicity 8513, Bodysuit

I had a bit of a phase last year when I was obsessed with the Simplicity 8513 Bodysuit pattern. Since then every time I spot some pretty black stretch fabric I add it to my stash with view to making another.

Incorporating subtle differences to each one, I decided this time to make the high-neck version. It wasn't until I sat down to start making the pattern that I realised this view included a zipper in the back neck. After a bit of Googling I soon realised I wasn't the only one who thought a zip in the garment when the fabric was so stretchy was something that could be avoided. After a few 'does this neck band stretch over my head?' tests I deemed my fabric stretchy enough to go without and got on with making.

 

My pattern includes a couple of extra inches in the length at the waist as before. I decided to crop the length of the sleeve this time, just to make the design a little more power-dressy and a little less morphsuit. I hemmed them with a 1.5cm hem with the twin needle before assembling the sleeves. Doing this while they are still flat is sort of cheating but saves you having to stretch the little hand hole around the machine. 

I had found that on my prior 8513 bodysuits there was a little too much fabric in the underarm area so this time I did a bit of research on how to make it more fitted. I learned that this could be improved by adjusting the angle of the shoulder seams or by making the chest length a little shorter. With this in mind, I took 1.5cm out across the chest on the front piece only, above the armhole notches. I matched this on the sleeve pattern on the front only, tapering into the centre of the sleeve. Again I made sure the alteration was above the notches so the sleeves would mach to the body. 

My fabric was particularly stretchy, so this time I didn't reduce the side seam allowances to 1cm. I tried the sleeves with a 1.5cm seam allowance too, but gee, I think it must be all the working out, they were a bit too tight, especially at the elbow, so I restitched with a 1cm seam allowance all the was down.  

 

My top tip for cutting this pattern is to extend the back crotch piece by a few inches. this way even if you've cut the pattern a little short in the body, or your fabric isn't quite a stretchy as you had anticipated you can adjust the length of the crotch piece at try-on time to make it fit!

I think my favourite part of making this bodysuit is attaching the elastic to the leg holes. I stitched this on right sides together with picot edge facing inwards, and then flip to the underside and stitch again. I didn't particularly apply any extra tension to the elastic, maybe just a little around the bum cheek area to aid the fit. I love how professional these edges look when the zig-zag stitching is complete. 

To finish I hand stitched 3 press stud poppers on the crotch area. Done! I love it!

With the improved fit of the garment I am super excited to plan my next bodysuit. I quite fancy some powermesh panelling (don't I always). I love the idea of creating a sweetheart neckline and then using the powermesh for the sleeves and shoulders.... Time to get creative!

x

Location: Sidney Street / Pinball Park, Sheffield
Currently listening to: Passing Through, Do Damage