Simple Sew, Lena Wrap Dress

The Lena Wrap dress is a circle skirt dress featuring a faux crossover top and a coice of three sleeve variations. There is a contrast band at the bottom of the skirt, but I decided to trace this onto the bottom of my pattern as I didn't have any contrast fabric but didn't want the dress to be too short.

I knew I would have to make some alterations to the pattern, as ever crossover top I have ever attempted has always been too roomy in the bust leading to gaping at the neckline. I took a wedge out of the front of the pattern, altering the angle of the shoulders and overall meaning there was less fabric between the neck and the point where the crossover meets.

After this I had to alter the ansle of the bust dart a little. To do this I unpicked the dart on my toile and then pinched the fabric from the side seam towards the bust point anf pinned. I could then transfer this new dart position onto my paper pattern, ensuring the lines met at the new bust point.

For me the process of getting the fit right was very trail and error, even after making a couple of toiles I was getting frustrated with my lak of clear direction in my ad-hoc alterations. I had an enlightening moment though, when I remembered the playfulness of the Sewing Bee contestants when completeing the Transformation Challenge. I altered by approch and took pleasure in manupulating the shape- taking bits out here and there until the dress started to resemble my body shape!

There were a few niggles with the pattern - I accept it's my small bust that lead to the gaping neckline, but there are no notches on the armholes for setting the sleeves in and there are notches marked on the foldline of the waistband!! Thankfully I was paying attention when cutting out my fabric and I didn't snip these in or I'd have had notches on the centre front and centreback of my waistband.

I made the bodice a little shorter- In hindsight I should probably have added a little extra length to the bottom of the waistband to accomodate for this. Like many of the bloggers who have tried this pattern, I also decided to stitch up the centre front of the wrap dress to er, keep everything in place.

Confession time! I didn't line the bodice! If I'd have had a perfect fit, lining the bodice would have given a beautiful finish and would have helped to support the weight of the circle skirt. Once I'd finished hacking bits off of the side seams and armholes, the last thing I wanted to do was replicate this on a lining piece! Instead I folded under the neck opening by 1.5cm and stitched around the neckline.  

Despite the rather haphazzard nature I put the dress together I do quite like the silhouette of the finished thing. I tried really hard to keep all the chaos on the inside! To finish I took about 1.5 inches off of the length and did a tiny narrow hem. Next time I will do a bit more research on how to do a small bust alteration on a wrap dress so that I feel more confident in my alterations, but I am more than happy with this as a starting place.

x

Location: Endcliffe Park/Ecclesall Road, Sheffield
Currently listening to: Moi Je Joue, Brigitte Bardot