McCalls M7726, Paperbag Trousers II

I'd booked sometime off and didnt want to spend it faffing with patterns I would need to alter. McCalls M7726 was recently tried and tested by me and I knew that although the make required attention to detail structurally, I'd already got the fit right, meaning I could relax and get on with the fun part.

I bought this fabric at the same time as the blue fabric with these trousers in mind. I think both together cost me less than £15 from the fabric shop in Hillsborough. The only other thing I needed was a 9" zipper and a hook and eye bar closure for the top of the fly. These hooks and eyes come in twos at my local market!

The grey fabric actually yeilded better results as it is much less prone to creasing, making for a much smoother look after Ive been sitting at my desk all day.

This time I overlocked my leg seams all in one and pressed to the back instead of doing them separately prior to assembling and pressing them open. I feel like this resulted in better accuracy as none of the fabric had been shaven off by the overlocker before stitching the seams together.

I am particularly pleased with my blind hem on these trousers. The fabric pressed really well and it was perfect for secretly hand sewing the invisible seam. I gained the same level of satrifaction topstitching my pleats this time round as I did on my blue pair. There is just something so lovely about knowing those pleats are FIXED. Beltloops also so so pleasing, there's something about weaving a shop bought belt through them that feels almost tricksy haha!

Due to the drape of the fabric this time I didn't think it was neccessary to take any of the fabric out of the side seams. They could get away with being slightly more tapered, but I think they currently look quite balanced. I didn't want to risk over-fitting the legs and then finding the pleated area looked a bit poofy.

I would however like to get some more experience in making fitted trousers so I'm now on the hunt for a simple (- but not boring!) trouser pattern that relies less on pleating, gathering , elastic or drawstrings and more on just getting that perfect fit. Any ideas?

x

Location: BUNK, Carver Street
Currently listening to: Laughing Willy, Jeremy Ivey

Simple Sew, Lena Wrap Dress

The Lena Wrap dress is a circle skirt dress featuring a faux crossover top and a coice of three sleeve variations. There is a contrast band at the bottom of the skirt, but I decided to trace this onto the bottom of my pattern as I didn't have any contrast fabric but didn't want the dress to be too short.

I knew I would have to make some alterations to the pattern, as ever crossover top I have ever attempted has always been too roomy in the bust leading to gaping at the neckline. I took a wedge out of the front of the pattern, altering the angle of the shoulders and overall meaning there was less fabric between the neck and the point where the crossover meets.

After this I had to alter the ansle of the bust dart a little. To do this I unpicked the dart on my toile and then pinched the fabric from the side seam towards the bust point anf pinned. I could then transfer this new dart position onto my paper pattern, ensuring the lines met at the new bust point.

For me the process of getting the fit right was very trail and error, even after making a couple of toiles I was getting frustrated with my lak of clear direction in my ad-hoc alterations. I had an enlightening moment though, when I remembered the playfulness of the Sewing Bee contestants when completeing the Transformation Challenge. I altered by approch and took pleasure in manupulating the shape- taking bits out here and there until the dress started to resemble my body shape!

There were a few niggles with the pattern - I accept it's my small bust that lead to the gaping neckline, but there are no notches on the armholes for setting the sleeves in and there are notches marked on the foldline of the waistband!! Thankfully I was paying attention when cutting out my fabric and I didn't snip these in or I'd have had notches on the centre front and centreback of my waistband.

I made the bodice a little shorter- In hindsight I should probably have added a little extra length to the bottom of the waistband to accomodate for this. Like many of the bloggers who have tried this pattern, I also decided to stitch up the centre front of the wrap dress to er, keep everything in place.

Confession time! I didn't line the bodice! If I'd have had a perfect fit, lining the bodice would have given a beautiful finish and would have helped to support the weight of the circle skirt. Once I'd finished hacking bits off of the side seams and armholes, the last thing I wanted to do was replicate this on a lining piece! Instead I folded under the neck opening by 1.5cm and stitched around the neckline.  

Despite the rather haphazzard nature I put the dress together I do quite like the silhouette of the finished thing. I tried really hard to keep all the chaos on the inside! To finish I took about 1.5 inches off of the length and did a tiny narrow hem. Next time I will do a bit more research on how to do a small bust alteration on a wrap dress so that I feel more confident in my alterations, but I am more than happy with this as a starting place.

x

Location: Endcliffe Park/Ecclesall Road, Sheffield
Currently listening to: Moi Je Joue, Brigitte Bardot