Stitch Witch Patterns, Bathurst Top

Instagram. I can while away my hours searching for new workouts, checking out attractive men on motorbikes or spying on my ex boyfriends' ex girlfriends' best friends' new boyfriend but my favourite thing is the sewing community. Sharing tips and learning from each other, admiring each other's handmade wardrobe each day through #MeMadeMay and offering advice when we are reaching for the seam ripper. A pool of inspo always ready and waiting to dip into whenever you decide. 

I have made many friends through using the app - I was very excited when one of which announced she would be starting her own pattern range STITCH WITCH PATTERNS. Madeline's style is not dissimilar to mine, a little bit spooky, a little bit retro, a little bit flirty, not to mention her solid fringe and winged eyeliner combo. When the Bathurst Top pattern was released I knew I needed to get in on the action.

The pattern is made up of five pattern pieces; front, back, front facing, back facing and ties. The back is split into two and joined only by the ties. The cut of the open back is totally gorgeous; open enough to drive the boys wild but enough coverage to allow for movement and not have to worry about flapping open. This flash of flesh in contract with the high front neck really makes for the perfect combo. There is an option for a slightly longer version included in the pattern- I've seen a few seamstresses share theirs on insta and the way the longer version flares out over the hips below the ties looks so lush!

I made a calico muslin - the form of the top lends itself to fabrics with a bit of body to them to keep the structure of the back pieces, so calico seemed like a good place to start. My measurements matched up really well to the size 6 on the pattern. The fit was really good on me, although a little too tight above the bust. With some time on my hands thanks to lockdown, I thought I'd have a go at my first full bust adjustment (never had to do one of those before haha!) to see if that would fix the issue. 

I learnt a lot- I now feel very confident in what needs to be done to add room to the bust using the slash and spread method, however the overbust was still pinching and the bust now looking a bit loose! I reverted back to the original pattern piece. My plan this time add 1cm to the CF (so 2cm on total when placed on the fold) and then if too loose on the bodice below the bust I could take the additional width out of the side seams. The 2cm added the fabric I definitely needed across my chest. My bust darts were just slightly pointing to the wrong area of my chest though. It was easy to see where they should naturally finish, so I marked this point on the toile then drew the new dart point onto my paper pattern. I watched a lengthy but fab video on how to move bust dart placement by Made To Sew, but in the end went for the simpler (cop-out) adjustment, using the same dart starting point at the raw edge and redrawing the dart legs to meet the new point I had drawn. This slight alteration did affect the matching up of the wide dart legs ever so slightly, however having got the additional cm on either side seam from the additional 2cm I added to the centre front, it meant I had a bit of fabric to comfortably play with below the dart, and I could easily manipulate the fit.

The only other thing I did that wasn't in the pattern was topstitch the ties. The only fabric I had in the house that suited the pattern and didn't have too much stretch was this wool blend (?), perhaps slightly upholstery-ish fabric, which due to its raised nap created quite bulky seams. Topstitching around the ties meant that they kept their shape and looked much neater. Due to the bulkiness of the seams I also understitched the centre back facing down to the top of the ties. I did a fair bit of seam allowance hacking to reduce as much bulk as possible, particularly where those seams intersected. 

I love it! I love the plain black fabric and the simple shaped front, then whoooooooa, that back!!! I love that I had chance to play around and learn new fitting techniques. 

I'm really excited to see what else Stitch Witch Patterns has in store for us. By the looks of it on Insta the sewing community is already going nuts for Madeline's new venture. I'm so happy I can now join in on the #Bathurst action!

Big love and spooky kisses,





x

Location: Lower Broomhill and Botanical Gardens, Sheffield
Currently listening to: Master Pretender, First Aid Kit

Simple Sew, Lapwing Shorts Hack

I imagine most seamstresses are familiar with that heart-sinking feeling when you realise you're just 20cm off making your dream garment from your perfect fabric. When you've explored all the different possible layplans and you've flipped your pattern pieces around that many times that you don't know up from down any more. Well, for the first time ever, I had the complete opposite issue - I'd already made two garments from this lovely viscose scattered in tiny hearts and I'd got plenty left for something else. 

I could never see this fabric as anything other than pyjamas, with PJ bottoms and camisole already in the bag I thought I'd make some matching PJ shorts now that the nights are warmer. 

I used the Simple Sew Lapwing pattern again, making a few obvious changes - the first being making the pattern well, shorts length. With the side seams being straight it was quite easy to measure the length I wanted and then square them off at the bottom. From the top of the pattern piece down to the bottom along the outside leg measured 40cm, and the inner leg seam was 9cm. 

I decided to omit the pockets this time for a few reasons. 1- I was worried the extra fabric would add a little unwanted bulk/weight and make my shorts a little less shimmy, 2-  I really didn't want the bottom of the pockets to poke out of the bottom of my leg, I could have amended the shape but, 3- Maybe I was just a bit damn lazy! No regrets here though!

I was tempted to add a shirred waist like I had done on my full-length Lapwings, but I had the perfect width waistband elastic in my stash so I opted to turn under the top of the shorts by 1.5cm, press and then turn under again and stitch around to create a channel. As I was using elastic not drawstring I omitted the drawstring openings and just stitched around the little gap I'd left myself after inserting the elastic. 

To add a bit of a professional finish to the waistband, I did a row of stitching across the top and bottom, stitching though both the fabric and the elastic. This stops the elastic from flipping, twisting and shifting inside the casing. You have to make sure to pull the waist out as you sew so that when the elastic pings back into place all the gathers it creates are evenly distributed. 

To jazz up the front a bit I made a bow out of yet more leftover fabric (!) and hand stitched to the centre front. I used the guide to making bows from the Secrets of Sewing Lingerie book and played around with the width and length of the bow. It's easy to make (you just use one piece of fabric folded and stitched cleverly for the horizontal bit and then a separate section is wrapped around vertically to hold it all together. Cute huh?

To hem I turned under and pressed 1cm, and then turned under another 1cm and stitched. As I'd cut the legs so square it was easy to get a nice neat finish, though I would like to have a play around with curved hems next time to maybe add a bit of a flirty flare.

What do you think though - Flirty enough at that length?! 

Of course no PJ set is complete without a matching scrunchie! This was a super quick and satisfying little make, and totally necessary now my hair is getting longer! I followed this How to Make a Scrunchie tutorial from Melly Sews. Great thing is, is once you've made one you can go back and make one to match every outfit you've ever sewn!

I still have some fabric left... What next?

x

Location: Endcliffe Village, Sheffield

Currently Listening To: Trouble With My Baby, Paloma Faith