Noelle Bra // So Zo Knickers, Lingerie Set

This fabric... Am I right guys?! It's been in the stash for almost a year because it's just been too bloody beautiful to use. I'd been through all my favourite stretch patterns in my head, but none of them were doing it justice. I wanted to make something tight (do we call it 'close fitting' to sound more profesh?), but was scared of those problem areas on tops (underarms and lower back) as I didn't have enough for a practice run. A skirt would have looked glam, but the fabric is too thin for a wiggle skirt and I didn't really fancy a circle skirt.

I love the Noelle Bra pattern from Madalynne. I've made a couple and I love them both, but since toning up a little there is a little more room in them than necessary. There were a few areas I thought I could improve on, mainly just a closer fit, but also neatening up that bottom band and just generally slicker stitching. Since making my last Noelle I've bought a walking foot which I was eager to try out... So that sold it! Noelle no.3 coming up!

I opted for my glammy gold fabric on the front panel and front band, both lined with some power mesh. The back a double layer of power mesh and the band a pretty lace. Lace elastic was my go-to from the Button Shed, delicate with just the right amount of stretch. The only other notions I needed were some straps (cut off an old bra that decided not to fit anymore) and some rings for attaching the straps. I chose these slightly larger than normal gold ones for a little extra impact.

Cutting the fabric was an important one here. The design is very eye catching so had to ensure that it was all perfectly central. As luck would have it, the bust darts lined up perfectly with the design, so two of the squares turned into lovely diamonds! I cut out flat so that I could make sure all my pieces were symmetrical.

Fitting-wise I doubled the seam allowances on either side. The fabric now stretches over my bust just the right amount (hi boys)! I took the same amount in on the bottom band to ensure the side seams would match up.

Oooh, while we are on the subject of side seams, this time I ensured all my seam allowances were hidden inside the lining and pushed forwards so they were hidden behind the fabric that isn't see through. This takes a bit of twisting the fabric round so that you can get 'inside' the garment but totally worth it once you get your head around which side is sewn to what.

I stitched my elastic on so it was on the right side 'facing downwards' if you know what I mean, then turned it to the wrong side and stitched again.. I was particularly pleased with how neat my zig-zagging was! Super satisfying.

Attach the straps and you're about done! All that's to finish off then is...

Matching knickers!

I'm sure by now you've aaaaaalllll used So Zo's free knicker pattern . It's absolutely fab, the only pants pattern you'll ever really need! I'm into the habit of altering that front piece into three so I can use contrasting fabric in the side panels. I cut the front panel from my lovely gold fabric, then duplicated this in the power mesh to make a lining. Again it stitched the side panels so the seam allowance was hidden between the front and the lining, this involved some more twisting but we're pro at that by this stage yeah?!

The gusset seam is also sneakily hidden inside the layers of fabric. Zo gives us a handy how-to on her blog so that you can ensure all the layers of fabric (ie, front back and gusset) are all laying the right way round when you stitch so that when you flip it all right side out it looks lush! The walking foot really came into its own here. In the past these layers have liked to slide and stretch around a bit but none of that today!

I attached the lace elastic before sewing up the side seams so that I could get a nice join in the lace when I stitched up. I decided to do the waist elastic the same way which was maybe not the right thing to do. I hate doing the 'join' when the rest of the garment is sewn up. I had visions of a bulky seam and thought it would be easier and neater to incorporate this with the overall sideseam. It worked fine, but I think the waistband tension would have been improved by doing this in one piece of elastic.

And that's it really. Symmetrical pattern cutting was again of course essential to get the design running straight down the centre front and back. The cute criss-cross elastic was some I found in Abakhan again a while back that I've been too scared to use!

I've got plenty supplies left... So bring on the lingerie sewing!

x

Currently listening to: Come Around, MIA
Location: Studio Holland