Simplicity 8513, Bodysuit

 

Some patterns just keep on giving. Sometimes the simplest designs can lend themselves to being adapted in a million ways to create something fun and diffrent every time.

Simplicity 8513 is one of those patterns. Once I'd perfected the fit of the body (not too tricky as its a pettern for knits and therefore quite forgivingm - I just had to lengthen the body a little but shorten the chest above the front armhole notch #smallbustproblems), I could make easy design alterations to the neckline and sleeve length to keep from making the same garment over and over again.

This time I was using this very cute sausage dog print kindly gifted to me from Minerva. I pounced the moment I saw it and was SO stoked that no one else had claimed the fabric before me. It has the perfect amount of stretch and recovery - making it great for vests and t-shirts (maybe a matching knicker set....), so naturally I gravitated to this bodysuit pattern that I know and love. The quirkiness of the fabric makes it appealing for children and adults alike  - I can imagine some reallllly sweet baby clothes in this fabric (yep yep, I know, I've essentially made myself a babygrow here). The fabric is available in a few different colour ways. Aside from the monochrome being my go-to, I think this helps stop the print from being tooo Ceebeebies meaning I could get away with making something for me! I've not stuck my romper through the wash yet, but the fabric feels good quality and unlikely to bobble or fade in the wash (we've all been there, spend days or weeks on a project, complete a sassy make, within two wears it's already bobbling where your handbag rubs = heartbreak). 

So how did I change the pattern this time? There are two amendments I made:
Sleeves: I had a vision and I wanted to try something new, I thought tshirt sleeves would look cutest with the fabric - to make them more exciting I did my first ever bit of 'ruching'! This is an easy and effective way of changing up a sleeve, and can also be used to make sleeves look shorter, without actually cutting anything off the hem. 
To Ruche, I first drew a line 1.5 cm away from the raw hem edge (pre-hemmed) towards shoulder point (marked by a dot on the pattern piece). I drew the line about 4 inches long, but this could be loads longer if you want more ruching or have a longer sleeve to play with. I played around with different lengths of 4mm elastic against the line, stretching it out anf letting it ruche between my fingers to get an idea of how the gathers would look. I decided the elastic should be about 6cm long for my desired ruche, but cut 8cm so I had some to hold onto. I stretched the elastic out and stiched along the line I drew. Let go of then end and Ping! You've ruched! 

Second modification was the Neckline. I couldn't decide if I wanted a turtleneck, mock turtleneck or cowl neck, so I cut one of each and pinned them on to test. Having never done one before, I loved the idea of a cowl neck, however the floppiness of it seemed to distract from the neat silhouette I had created. There was somehting a bit more official about a tall neck, an almost formality that challenged the playfulness of the dog print. I think that's one of the things I really enjoyed about this make. The sexy meets cute, feminine but bold, applicable to either situation depending what you style it with. I used the pattern piece included in the pattern but messed around with the height of the neck, making sure I'd got them pooches lined up nicely in the centre.

My fave part of making this is always putting the leg elastic on. I had a quick peek at the sewing marketstall in Sheffield and they finally had some picot elastic in stock! I bought 2 meters and have about 50cm left after going round the legs. My top tip for applying this would always be not to stretch the elastic too much as you sew, as you want the edge to hold on to your body but not squeeze it.

Now, who's for hotdogs?

x
Location: Home Sweet Home
Currently listening to: Club Cougar, Nadine Shah

Panelled Knickers, 2021

Sewing is an important form of expression for me, much like writing this blog and getting dressed in the morning. Recently I’ve been feeling really good – there’s a lot of really exciting stuff going on right now and knowing that this feeling is unlikely to last forever I have been trying really hard to acknowledge,  embrace and appreciate it. So, naturally, I made some fancy knickers. And then I showed everyone on Instagram. And now I’m showing everyone on Blogger and Minerva too.

Body positivity, but make it accessible, not angry. There’s still a stigma I think, around women who band around the body positivity tag like it’s a protest against something. And I feel the response of the viewer is still commonly one of slight unease and an uncertainty of how to respond. Don’t be a pervert! But also you have to appreciate my body or else you’re closed minded. You’re not allowed to be jealous, but you must be envious. It’s a minefield. My heart felt so big to find that most of the reactions I got on Instagram were from other seamstresses who were both excited about my knicker success and excited about creating their own knicker success. 

I was really inspired by a single shot from @justkatemakes who’s memade bikini post captured the fun and freedom that I feel when making and wearing memade lingerie. Although it’s not my first time using panels to create shape and fabric juxtaposition, I thought there was such a lovely elegance to @justkatemakes ‘s bikini set and I wanted to emulate that. With that in mind I wanted to omit my lumpy sideseams and instead draft a side panel that would join, hidden between the front panel and its lining and then to a back seam in a bum panel shaped to accentuate the small of my back and errrm, the round of my ass.

Its funny isn’t it – there are so many pictures of pants that pop up on my insta feed. On models, off models, handmade, store bought, pattern pieces, how-to’s, how not-tos, lace and elastic and sewing supplies, whole accounts dedicated to making underwear. Yet I post a photoset and part of me still thinks ugh, was that a good idea? Will it some how come back on me? My ex would have slaughtered me, my mom now used to these antics would probably roll a jovial eye and tell me not to get cyber bullied. I note some of my closest female friends avoided hitting the like button, but those that sew and understand the joy of creating were instantly celebratory…. Not that I’m scrutinising, just observing. Even if you’re happy with your body and people seeing it there is still a fear of being perceived as arrogant for not being shy, or arrogant for then writing a blog post about how you’re not shy.

But the way I see it is this. We will not be this young and free and celebratory of our bodies forever, other things will take importance and rightly so. I want to embrace body positivity and sewing and how healthy I feel right now as some kind of bookmark. I don’t want to forget this feeling. 

x

Location: Mama's House
Currently Listening to: Locomotiove, Crystal Pistol