Butterick B6423, Lisette Coat

I get cold. Colder than I ever used to, so when I spotted Love Sewing's recent cover pattern was this Lisette coat I really wanted to have a go. The lovely folk on Day Case at the hospital chipped in for my leaving prezzie and I spent my dollar in Abakhan. This speckley wool blend was in the shash bins downstairs, for about £16 I bought three meters (I'll show you what I spenT the rest on in posts to come!!). Just what I needed now I don't have those lovely folk so close at hand to keep my heart warm. Thanks guys.

The only other things you'll need are some lining and some interfacing and a big button for the front. I discovered Hillsborough Fabrics big stash of satin for the lining. I was tempted to go for a light pink or perhaps a gold, but after much thought I went for a more understated charcoal. Hey it's one step more exciting than black.


I followed the cutting lay out, but with a bit of re-jigging I freed up quite a bit of fabric and have an off-cut definitely suitable for something else, maybe an office skirt for my new job? There's lining left too so doesn't seem like a bad shout.

The fun thing about this coat pattern is the multiple panels give you chance to play around with some different fabrics. I did buy some black wool with the intention of having a go but was worried it would mess with the hang of the fabric if it wasn't quite weighted right. I'd like to have a play with some fur or sheepskin for a collar sometime this year.



I'd urge you not to skip interfacing, as that collar really benefits from added structure. In fact if I made another I would be tempted to interface the whole front panel too. I would advise adding interfacing to the pocket seams (top and bottom) to keep them in shape, and also maybe the cuffs and bottom hem just for strength (though guilty, I didn't interface these).

Sewing up is fun!! Loved watching the pockets come to life with those princess seams. The trickiest bit is probably faffing about with that collar. It can be a bit hard to get those angles right where the collar joins at the neck, though it looks fab when it goes from fabric to lining when you nailed it!!

Don't underestimate the importance of all the dots and notches, though I lost some of my notches as my fabric started to fray, aghh! I overlocked a few bits as I went along to try and prevent disintegration, but as the coat is fully lined you can get away without an overlocker if you don't play too rough ;)

A lot of online reviews have mentioned that the sleeves are too long. I can't disagree, I cut 2 inches off of the length and think I turned them in a little more than I should have too. Not sure whose arms are quite that long! But it was really easy to save, just make sure you do the same to the lining fabric and it's no drama.

The other thing that keeps cropping up online about this pattern... 'WTF is step 36?' Ha! I've no idea! No one knows, apparently even Lisette doesn't know! It's something to do with hemming and the pleat, then there's this cryptic image. Anyone seen similar? I skipped it and my coat hasn't fallen apart, would still love to know though.

The pleat and hems are all hand stitched, I was surprisingly pleased with my efforts. The satin lining looks so swish!! It doesn't suggest it in the instructions but I would recommend stitching the centre backs of the collar together by stitching in the seam ditch. This will stop the under collar from rolling out when you've got it on.


I ummed and ahhed about how to fasten the front. The lovely House of Pinheiro had used some funky bag clasps to fasten hers, but I struck lucky when I rifled through my Gran's old button bag and found these chunky buttons. I went for two because one looked a little lonely. So glad I can have a piece of her on on coat, I hope it would make her proud.

The pattern is super fun to make, it's very exciting when it all starts to take shape. I would prefer maybe a little less fabric in the top sleeves, but will be great for layering up. And lots of layering up there will be, I have SO much on my to-sew list this year!!

Can't wait to get cracking with more fabric from my last Abakhan haul!

x

Location: Victoria Quays, Sheffield
Currently listening to: Dead In The Water, Calexico

Leopard Print Simplicity 1070 Crop Top

Instagram is a useful little tool for the modern woman. Not just handy for archiving gig pictures and checking out your OkCupid date before you agree to meet, but also connecting with people who share your passion. People who sadly, you don't just bump into on the street often enough.

A couple of months back, Instagram's algorithms bought together myself and More Sewing and our shared love of fabric sparked idea of a collaboration. So before I waffle on about my make, go and check out the More Sewing website, give them a follow on Insta and maybe spend a few of your Christmas pennies on a treat for yourself.

I was lucky enough to receive this lush leopard print jersey in the post the other week, which is just what I needed to make that second Simplicity 1070 Stretch Crop Top that I mentioned in my post.

My last croppy top using this pattern turned out a little tight under the arms. I did a bit of reading up to find that the alteration is pretty simple, just scoop out as much as necessary from the top of the side seams, then match this on the actual sleeve pieces. I took out 2cm from the back and front pieces which set my armholes to where they should be.

Like my last one, I used the pattern for the longer length top but took some off of the bottom. I decided to hem the sleeves before sewing the sleeve seam this time. As the hem is so wide (2 inches) but so narrow it's hard to get the machine in to sew the hem. Was so much easier to do this while the sleeve was still flat. I love these wide hems! And also the sleeve length, I love that too.

I took about 1 cm off of the suggested neckband length. I pinned on the original length to the neck to find it gaped just a little at the shoulders so knew I needed to take a little off of the length.

The top is a great fit and I'm super pleased with the armhole alteration. The only problem I'm finding with both of these tops is that they have the tendency to rise up a little when I don't want them to. I think this is because they are tighter across the bust than they are around the waist. Can anyone confirm? Should I loosen off a little around the chest if I make another?

I've got a bit of fabric left. I think I'm going to try and squeeze a little circle skirt out of the remainder, then I can go full cave girl!!

Thanks again to More Sewing for the fabric. There is so much good stuff on their site, or you can pop in store if you're down Sussex way. I'm told that in the new year there will be a pattern range coming out so keep your eyes peeled!

Happy New Year stitchers! Can't wait to see what we'll achieve in 2018

x

Location: The House Skatepark, Sheffield
Currently listening to: Alone, Horsebeach

Simple Sew, Stylish Shell Top

For this month's round of Simple Sew patterns posts, the whole blog team are using the Stylish Shell Top pattern. The pattern is super simple, I'm excited to see how everyone is going to put their own stamp on it. There are a few different views to chose from, with opportunity for a contrasting yoke or bottom band, and the sleeves are optional. This meant that the pattern is a good chance to use up some fabric off-cuts that you've been holding on to but couldn't bring yourself to bin!

I chose View A- a sleeved version of the top with a contrasting yoke section. My fabric choices were some left over georgette from FC Fabrics and some more left over see-throughy patterned fabric from Hillsborough Fine Fabrics. The only other thing you'll need is some bias-binding for the neckline, I made my own out of some georgette which was surprisingly well behaved!

The top has no fastening, but is designed for woven fabrics without stretch, so it needs to be quite boxy and roomy to get it over your head. This makes for really simple construction. The only shaping needed is the bust darts. I changed the angle of the shoulder seams a little as when I put it on it stuck out a little at the neck. Really easy to fix though.

Once sewing the bust darts, attaching the shoulder seams and side seams, the next step is inserting the sleeves.
My top sleeve inserting tips:

-Make sure you've cut the notches on your sleeve head. Two notches for back and one for front. If you're using view A, these should match up with where the yoke joins the body
-I like to then sew the underarm between the notches, making sure the underarm sleeve seam and body side seam match.
-For this pattern, the centre of the sleeve head is also marked with a notch. This wants to join at the shoulder seam. I like to pin this and then work outwards, pinning around the sleeve head towards the underarm.
-This pattern doesn't require too much easing in, on those that do (where the sleeve head is larger then your armhole) evenly place pins right the way around with little 'bubbles' of sleeve between each pin. I don't want to tell you to leave the pins in as you sew around... But it can help ;)

With sleeves in I tried on. Well, if you've read my blog before we all know what happens next. I looked a little lost in it's boxiness, so I cut some off the bottom and some off the sleeves!! About 5cm from each actually and I felt much happier in it. I overlocked and turned the hems up once for a neat little narrow hem.

Final step was adding the neck binding. I had spray starched my georgette to make it a little more manageable and it did exactly what it was told!

I have to admit, I had my doubts about the pattern but fell in love the moment I cropped it! Would really love to make more and play around with other fabric juxtapositions. It's really quick to get on with and always feels great to use fabric scraps you've not been able to part with.

Looking forward to seeing the other blogger's shell tops!

x

Location: Sheffield Winter Gardens
Currently listening to: Stop, Black Rebel Motor Cycle Club

Leather Mia Miniskirt

A year ago I was mid way through a pattern drafting course with the lovely Leann Marie Design and plans had already started swirling in my head to make my tassely dress of dreams.
This dress not only boosted my confidence in designing and drafting, it also introduced me to The Identity Store in nearby Matlock. The Identity store do a seasonal sale at the Imperial Rooms in Matlock and this Autumn my friend Charlotte and I took a look.

I didn't really know what to expect, but we certainly weren't disappointed. Much like the shop itself there was a massive selection of leathers, only here you could get a good look at everything! I knew I wanted to make myself a sassy mini skirt. I wear my self-drafted pleather Mia quite a lot, though there were a couple of tweaks I wanted to make to the pattern so had that in mind while browsing.

It came down to a lovely metallic blue sheen leather, or this printed tiger print leather. It was a tough call, but the uniqueness of the animal print won me over. How lovely it shines in the light! I bought two pieces, one at £15 and one at £20. We had a good stroke of all the pieces on offer to check for holes and abnormalities.


The main change I wanted to make to the pattern was to take a little out of the centre back. So what had happened, is when I had made my sway back adjustment at the top of the back, it had altered the hang of the skirt, meaning that the centre back was now angled not parallel to each other. It's not a massive deal, but I am aware of it when I wear my skirt and it scrunches up a little when I sit down. It seemed like a pretty easy thing to fix. On my paper pattern I just folded out the excess triangle of fabric at the bottom of the back skirt pieces. Too terrified to cut into my leather I cut the lining first. ITS A GOOD JOB I DID, what I had totally failed to consider was that taking two massive chunks out of the bottom of the skirt would massively change the fit! Ha! I could get my lining on, but it hugged my hips very tight then kicked out really weirdly. Back to the calico, I slightly altered the side seams of both the front and back skirt pieces, roughly putting back in the amount I had taken out of the back, only this time into the sides.

I find it tricky to tell how good something will look in actual fabric when you're all calico'd up, but it was definitely a vast improvement. Luckily I had enough lining fabric left for take two. Phew!! So much better!

*SNEAKY TIP* I cut a little extra into the front pieces so that I could add a little tuck into the lining at the waist band. Under a heavy fabric like leather the extra fabric in the lining won't show, but will just give you a little more room for movement. After the first lining attempt I wasn't taking any chances!!


Held my breath the whole time cutting out my leather- There was a definite direction to the tiger print so I was careful with pattern piece placement. I decided it would be most effective to go for a kind of mirror image effect, so the seam at the centre front and centre back would break up the pattern.

I used the good old tissue trick and set the stitch length to 4 to stop the machine foot dragging the leather, works every time! I started with centre front seam which ran smoothly, then onto side seams.

The biggest problem I found was the bulk! The waistband which I pinched and edited from the lovely Simple Sew Shannon Shorts is made up of 5 pieces, and then another 5 pieces for the waistband facing. You can imagine all those fat seams!! It was a bit of a fiddle sewing waistband to skirt but I got there without throwing a full strop. It looks a bit lumpy in places which I think it inevitable when using leather. I gave it a good press (PLEASE use a pressing cloth!!) which helped a lot.
To battle bulk I could maybe use a different fabric for the waistband facing?

To sew in the lining, I stitched my leather skirt to one side of the waistband then the lining to the other. The seam allowance of the waistband on either side could then be sewn together keeping the waistband folded along the top seam. Next time I need to remember not to sew all the way to the end though, as I need to turn though the ends when stitching the lining to the zip.

Bulk was also a pain when inserting my zip. It was tricky to pin it into place. I played about with it a bit. To get it to fit where I wanted it to seam allowance was about 2.5cm. Last time I used a sneaky bit of double sided tape instead of pins to hold the zip on place as I stitched but this time I had real fear I would have to reposition it, and I didn't want the tape to peel off the animal print.
As it happens, I didn't have to take the zip out! Phew! To sew the lining to the zip you have to turn it all to the wrong side then sew close to the zip lump under the lining (I switched from invisible zip foot to normal zip foot for this). Then turn back and poke out all your bulky corners at the top of the waistband haha! I kept going back in to hack bits out!

Once the zip was in and the seam was closed up at the bottom of the skirt and lining, it was a tough decision whether to hem or not. I'd made the skirt with the intention of hemming and had taken an inch off the lining so that it wouldn't show when I had turned the skirt up, but when it came to it, the bulkiness of the centre front seam was so off putting. I had vision of the foot dragging along, making really tiny stitches over the lumps with no way of hiding them. I really really REALLY didn't want to fail at the last hurdle, so I decided no hem. I think I did right, the skirt hangs really nicely and at a good length.

So proud of this make! I'm slightly paranoid about sitting down in it and getting a bum print in the leather, but it's already my go-to skirt for nights out. Wonder what next year will bring, eh?
#sassy17

x

Location: The Light, Sheffield
Currently listening to: And I'm Aching, Black Rebel Motor Cycle Club