Love Sewing Magazine/ Simple Sew, Lottie Blouse V- Houndstooth edition

Ok, don't be angry- I made myself another Lottie this weekend. In fact, I got up at 6am and made it in a morning. I know I promised more exciting, challenging patterns but after finding this perfect Houndstooth georgette fabric in Abakhan Manchester I knew I had to make a Lottie. And besides, they are just so perfect for work it was totally worth it.

I thought using a sheer fabric might be a bit of a nightmare, but it actually seemed to go pretty problem free. My machine hated zig-zaging the edges though, so was glad the seams were all french seams. It lead to a bit of a wobbly hem... But I tuck them in anyway! The experience has encouraged me a little more to take the plunge and get an overlocker, but all in due time I think!

I absolutely adore this fabric. Calm yourself boys- it's a bit see through! I have been looking for the perfect houndstooth for a while now and I struck lucky when I stumbled across Abakhans in Manchester. I honestly could have spent all day in there! I was wishing I'd gone with a pattern in mind- then maybe I'd have been a bit more adventurous. I found some anchor fabric which was instant love too- So expect something sailory coming this way soon!

Currently Listening to: In Time, Black Keys

Love Sewing Magazine/Simple Sew, Lottie Skirt and Modified Blouse

It's no secret that I've been obsessed with Love Sewing Magazine's free Lottie blouse pattern, but a couple of weeks back I decided to complete the look by having a go at the Lottie Skirt.

The fabric I chose was the last little bit on the bolt in the shop, so knew I couldn't cock it up. It is quite thin, so perhaps the skirt could have done with a lining, but I always hate linings on shop bought garments and have been known to take them out, so thought that I wouldn't ruin what could be a potentially good skirt by throwing one in. Poor excuse I know.

So the first problem I had was the size ten I cut being too big. I foolishly rushed into thinking I knew what I was doing and cut some bits off, which worked great for the front, but left the back without room for my bum! Definitely no sitting down for me. Luckily, as I didn't want the skirt to be the same length as the pattern, I had just enough fabric to cut a second back, which I actually didn't cut smaller at all. Instead I took quite a bit more in in the darts than the pattern suggested and this seemed to do the trick.

I was happy to find that the waistband was just a straight piece folded over, so didn't have to faff around finding the middle and matching curves up etc. I have read on a few different reviews that the sizes on the pattern for the waistband are actually too short, so anyone having a go I would suggest cutting it extra long as I did, and fitting it to suit the skirt when necessary. Stupidly, I thought as the pattern didn't say anything about using interfacing I would be able to get away without interfacing the waistband. That is really the only thing I regret! It folds over a little if I sit down but could be much worse.
I'm pretty happy with the length and the split up the back is rather neat... Even if I have split the stitching since stepping over my dog. Ooops! Easily solved though.

So once the skirt was finished, I realised I would need a black blouse to go with it. I bought some fabric and knocked one up pretty quickly, but soon discovered that the fabric was much too thick and had too much body to make an effective blouse. You live and learn.
So the next weekend I picked up some more blouse-suited black fabric with better drape, which looks pretty officey. The basic shape was easy as it seems to be drilled in my brain now, but I decided I wanted to try something a bit different and add a collar to this one. I was eager to make the collar from the same fabric as my skirt so I could be the coolest girl at work.

Bearing in mind I have never done a collar or really looked at any instructions on how to besides receiving a few words of advice from Shauni at Magnificent Thread, it came out okay.
I did the collar in two pieces instead of one, thinking this would probably be a bit more forgiving if the shape wasn't quite right. Turns out it meant one side was going to lie flat at the back and the other would poke up a bit. I put in a couple of stitches though and it seems to be ok now. The inside of the blouse will clearly show anyone who looks how not to attach a collar, but for as long as I have it on, that can be a secret between you and me. Next time I will actually follow a pattern and do it properly.

I fastened up the keyhole at the neck with a pretty button and loop.

Overall dead happy with the two garments, especially wearing them both together. I definitely want to practice collars so that I can just add them to everything!

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Currently listening to Can't Speak French, Girls Aloud

Love Sewing Magazine/Simple Sew Lottie Blouse III

My third Lottie Blouse from Issue 2 of Love Sewing Magazine!

This is my favourite of the three! The fabric I chose has a slightly shinier quality and a bit more body than my viscose blouses. This is the closest thing I could find to a geometric pattern. Are they shells?

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Currently listening to Tak Shindo, Mwanza Market Place

Love Sewing Magazine/Simple Sew Lottie Blouse II

Lottie Blouse number 2! Failing again at my hunt to find some geometric fabric I settled for some bold floral viscose from the market in town.

I got the first half of the making done in an afternoon. What took the time was faffing about with the neck tie! Whichever way I did it I could NOT get it to line up properly and lie flat. In the end (after unpicking about 10 times!) I attached around the neckline using slip stitch first then did some funky folding over of the tie ends to try and make them lie flat! Not particularly professional, but I don't think you can tell unless you know!

I love working with viscose, despite it's fray-some qualities. I incorporated french seams again so hopefully don't have to worry about troublesome threads!

I'm working on number three as we speak then I promise it's time for another pattern!

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Love Sewing Magazine/Simple Sew, Spotty Lottie Blouse

I've seen some fantastic Lottie Blouses online after the pattern came free with issue 2 of Love Sewing magazine. Not wanting to miss out on the action I ordered a back issue for Christmas so that I could get cracking with my own.
After getting a new job in October I have been eager to make something I can wear to work. I'm really pleased with how my Lottie turned out!

I was looking for a chiffon type fabric, preferably black with some kind of geometric patterning on. My local fabric shops didn't seem too stocked on geometric chiffons! The closest we could get was a few bold florals but nothing was really floating my boat. In the end I settled on some black and white polkadot viscose at £3.99 p/m. Bargain!

The pattern is made up of front, back, sleeves, neck tie and a strip if bias binding for the dipped bit in the neck. The neck tie was meant to be longer but I couldn't fit a longer one on my fabric! Which is odd because the pattern states use 60" fabric and the neck tie is cut on the fold... But the pattern piece was 34" long! So clearly would not fit. As viscose is so dreadfully susceptible to fraying I opted for french seams. I was worried that this might make the blouse a little too small but looking at the measurements I was a borderline 8/10 any way so I risked it.

The hardest part of making was the neckline. The fabric was very difficult to cut straight as it is so stretchy! I attempted to sew on my binding around the lower part of the neck but it really wasn't catching the fabric properly! I decided to cut another strip, this time extending the width to 4.5cm. In hindsight this was probably a little bit too thick, I would maybe go for 4cm next time. I looks good from the front but not so much on the back. At least all 5 layers of fabric are stitched together right the way round!

I thought I might struggle a little with inserting the sleeves, but since getting a dressmakers dummy for Christmas I can see sleeves are going to be much easier! I wasn't looking for anything too poofy so I made sure they were gathered in gently.

Like many other bloggers I have seen who have made a Lottie, I attached the neck tie differently to how it suggested in the pattern. Much like the band on the Love Sewing magazine kimono I made I turned in a cm around each length then stitched the fold along one side to the right side of the neck. I then folded over the band and encased all raw edges. I did a slip stitch by hand (eek!) to catch the inside of the neck tie so no stitches were showing. I did this right the way around the neck but did topstitching along the bow part of the band, after sewing the diagonal ends right sides together then turning back out.

Then ta-dah! I turned up the hems and had my blouse! Test ran it to work today and it looked great tucked into my office skirt. Think it's my most wearable make so far!

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