Madalynne Intimates, Noelle Bra II

I love the Noelle bra pattern from Madalynne so much that I decided to make another! Incase you missed my last post- the pattern is a FREE (!) PDF download from Madalynne's website. Just click the link and you could have your hands on it right away!

With experience of making one already on my side, I was armed with a few ideas before setting off with my second Noelle. First up I took a little off off the pattern at the waistband. Really I just evened out that slant as my underbust before you get to my waist is a bit more | | than \ /.


This time I didn't bother to hide my seam allowance between the outer and lining fabrics. Instead I just stitched the seam as normal as it would be easier to adjust if I found the bra to be too big at try on stage.

I cut from red velvet from my stash for the front, stretch lace from Abakhan for the back and band and lined with a 4 way stretch mesh from Amazon. I used the same lovely lace trim as I did before as it worked so well.

Where I attached my band to the bra I decided to follow the instructions (!) and use zig zag stitch instead of overlocking. This makes for a flatter seam and therefore less bulk whilst wearing.

Also this leaves a seam allowance ideal for attaching the elastic to without having the stitching showing on the outside. This only took 4 attempts to realise!! But well worth the unpicking. The elastic gives secret support without showing at all on the outside.


Again I recycled old bra straps for the straps. This time I did plan to make my own but Abakhan told me they only did bra elastic in white (mental). The joining hoop is actually from a woodwork shop! This is what you get if you ask your dad to source bra supplies while you're at work! Does the trick though!

Only mistake was a pretty annoying one though..... I got the nap of the velvet the wrong way round!! So stroke it upwards not downwards! Or better still mate, don't stroke me at all. It did make me feel slightly better though when I found a velvet skirt in high street shop Peacocks with nap going in the same direction. Maybe it's perfectly acceptable ;)

#Sexy17

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Location: Ball Street Bridge, Kelham Island, Sheffield
Currently listening to: (Ghost) Riders In The Sky, The Ramrods

Self-Drafted Gemma skirt

I was on the train platform waiting for the 9:11 to Manchester when I saw a girl totally dressed for autumn in lovely shades of muted orange. As luck would have it I was just about to hop on the train to visit Abakhan, and in the bargain bins downstairs I found this lovely jersey in the exact same shade! I bought the lot without really knowing what it was I was going to make. I knew a full dress in orange was going to be a bit too much for me no matter how muted the shade, so decided instead on a circle skirt for swishing around in the leaves.


Without a pattern in mind I decided to draft one from an old shop bought skirt. The skirt is made from four equal panels, cut with straight grain down the centre of each and a simple waistband reinforced with elastic.



To make the panel pattern I drew around half of one of my skirt's panels onto pattern paper then cut it out on the fold so I could be sure it was symmetrical. I made sure the length was the same as my skirt and also importantly, that the width of the panel at the waist was the same. I then added a 1.5cm seam allowance around the top and sides as well at 1.5cm for the hem.

For the waistband I simply measured my waist where I wanted to wear the skirt and drew a rectangle that long plus 3cm seam allowance x (the depth x2 plus seam allowance x2). So, my depth was 4cm plus a 1.5cm seam allowance making 5.5cm x2 for the inside and out.


Once everything was cut out of my fabric the first step was stitching together all 4 panels then testing the fit. It feels a bit loose at this point but obviously it's all brought together when the waistband is attached. If it had been much too loose it would have been easy to increase the seam allowance on the panels to make for better fit.

I cut a length of 4cm wide elastic to match the length of my waistband. I stitched together the waistband ends, making sure the elastic ends matched the raw edges and also each other. Next step was to turn the waistband right side out and fold it over the elastic, encasing it inside. To attach to the skirt I matched up centre front and centre back points and stretched the waistband out a little as I overlocked the two together.

A quick hem to finish stitched down with a twin needle.

Easy! Will definitely be making another Gemma!

x

Location: Hawkstone Park and Follies, Shrewsbury
Currently listening to: Satellite, Sultan Bathery

Inserting Poppers/Snaps Tutorial

Recently I had my first shot at installing some poppers instead of buttons onto a shirt. I've had a popper-putter-inner for a while now, but never had the guts to use it. I had a few practice shots and found the instructions to be a bit vague, so thought I would knock together a tutorial on how to attach snaps to your garment for my own benefit as much as anyone elses!

There are a few different ways you can put them in, but the most reliable way seems to be by using pliers designed for press studs, eyelets and piercing. There are various different press studs you can get- the ones in this tutorial are Prym Anorak poppers. If you're using a different sort please check your individual instructions as they may vary.

First you want to punch two holes in your garment where the press-stud is going to be, one for the top of the popper and one for the bottom. The placement should already be marked on your garment from your pattern.


The first tool you will need is this pair that come with the pliers themselves. The rounded tool (not the pointy one) can be used either way round for punching different width holes. I used the smallest size.


You won't need these punch tools again so you can remove them from the pliers. This handy blue tool comes with the pliers for removing the different accessories.



We are going to put in the top of the press stud first. For this you will need the white round plastic tool and the bevelled pointy metal one that come with the snaps.


We then need the top and bottom of the the top popper. The bottom piece slots nicely onto the bevelled tool in the pliers. The top piece is then placed into the white plastic.


This now needs lining up with the hole we punched on the part of the garment which will be showing (ie, top of the button placket, top of the pocket flap etc). Before squeezing the pliers I urge you to check you have got the top of the press stud on the top of the garment!! Close the pliers gently at first to make sure both sides match up nicely with the hole... Then squeeze!



The top of the popper is in! We are halfway there.


The tools in the pliers need changing to this one with a rubbery bit in and its inverted partner piece. We need the top and bottom bit of the bottom of the press stud, like so;


The bottom of the bottom of the press stud sits happily inside the rubbery bit of the tool.


The pointy bit of the press stud now inside the rubbery tool needs to be lined up with the hole in your garment. This bit will need to go on the back, so that the top of the bottom of the popper matches up with the back of the top of the popper when all is in place.


Line up the top of the bottom of the popper with the inverted bit of the tool then crunch down on your pliers! Your press stud is complete!


Overall, I found using snaps much easier than faffing about with risky button holes. What do you think? Does anyone have any experience with other types of press-stud? How did you get on?

x

Currently listening to: Lucky Man, Verve

Madalynne Intimates, Noelle Bra

After the success of my Sierra bra from the free download on Madalynne's website, I was well hyped up to have a go at another of the free patterns on her site. The Noelle set was next up- another soft cup bra with a panty pattern thrown in!

Love a good lingerie make for using up fabrics- You barely need anything to make this! I used a little left over velvet for the front outer, the back and linings out of mesh and the underbust band from left over lace I also used for my Sierra bra. Only other notions you need are a metal hoop to join the halter straps to the bodice at the back and some elastic. I used this lovely lacy flat black lingerie elastic from The Button Shed on Amazon, still some left! But I've ordered some more so stocks don't wear thin! Inside the bra I used some plain elastic on the underbust.



As with the Sierra Bra, the Noelle pattern suggests including a lining. The Sierra sew-along explains how to hide the side seams inside the lining. The Noelle doesn't mention this, but I thought I'd use my new found skills to do the same again. I have read on quite a few reviews of this pattern that the sizing is a bit off, and lots of people have just taken in a little extra at the side seams. Typically I'd made life harder for myself in hiding the seams inside the bra! Although it could have got away with being a little tighter, I decided against altering the seams- but will remember to take a little out next time!! Next time I must also remember to trim down my seam allowances before they get sandwiched inside the bra and also make sure the allowance in the top half is hidden in the same direction at the allowance in the band.


I could have made a neater job of attaching the elastic around the edge. You can't tell, but I foolishly thought you could just go right the way round so started at the top of a side seam, only to find that when I reached the strap area I would have to cut the elastic and start sewing a new piece at the neckline. What I should have done is start at the centre back! No one will know though.

I stitched the elastic so the straight edge lined up with the raw edges, picot facing inwards, then flipped it up so the seam was hidden underneath and picot on the outer edge, then zig-zagged on top. It is important to either put the neckline piece on first, or up the back/underarm elastic on first so that you can do the flipping up bit without getting in a twist. You'll see exactly what I mean when you have a go!

I attached my underbust band using the overlocker, which was fine but did make the seam a little bulky. The pattern suggests using zig-zag stitch on the normal machine which I might try that instead next time. The side seams of the band are at a slight angle, but due to body shape the fabric pools a little at the widest part where it joins the bra. It's not much so I shaved a little off the pattern, making a straighter line for next time. Plain elastic is then sewn to the inside of the bra, hiding the seam and adding a little more 'grab'. I used my flat picot elastic to finish the bottom of the band.

My metal loop was 10p from market! Bargain! They gave it my dad for free though because he only had a fiver, even better! It's about the size of a 5 pence piece, perfect size for getting the top of the back looped round as well as the two straps. I stitched the ends of the straps down with zigzag stitch to keep them secure once in position. The front of the bra loops through smaller loops on the other end of the straps. It was a little bit of a squeeze with all the picot and velvet but the straps join on nicely.

And then it's finished! Already! My head is spinning with all the lovely fabrics I can use to make more! I've got some red velvet in my stash that's nore been doing anything for a while...



x

Location: Botanical Gardens, Sheffield
Currently listening to: We're In This Together, Nine Inch Nails