Looks Like I Made it, Self-drafted Zohra Kimono

I was lured into River Island on a trek through town by something subtly unusual. Straight through the door hung a cropped, tie-waist, narrow sleeved, fasten-up kimono that seemed to solve all the problems I find with a standard T shaped kimono. The tucked in waist makes for a flattering shape. I automatically knew narrow but long sleeves would suit me much more than the usual billowy affair that always seems to look fab on others but never quite right on me. The shaped neckline added a hint of elegance, as did the splits in the sleeves. I stopped in my tracks then went to investigate.

I took a load of photos, excited by my own understanding of the construction. A french seam down the centre back, interfaced neck and front band, the body gathered into the waistband. The more I looked the more I recognised this item as something I could totally make. At this point the security guard is looking at me funny and asking if I need any help. I just smiled like a child besotted and said no, I was just fine.

That night I didn't dream about usual themes of lost love and nuclear war, but instead the cropped kimono was whirring around in my sleepy head, and when I woke up I knew I couldn't be without it.

So I went back and bought it from River Island with the intention of drafting my own pattern from it. I figured if it was special enough to enter into my dreams, it was special enough to fork out for. I picked up a few meters of Calico and it was that night I had another vivid dream about making the kimono. With that I dedicated my Bank Holiday weekend to drafting my first ever pattern.

I don't know if there is a right and wrong way to go about making your own pattern. This was absolutely my first attempt at anything like this. I laid out RI kimono on the kitchen table and drew around the main shape of the body. I squared off the bottom to make allowance for the gathers and added a 1.5cm seam allowance around all sides. Using this front shape I had drawn, I traced the centre front line and drafted a front band that would follow the curves perfectly. I was really happy with my dedication to shaping here, as it wouldn't have been awful to have just made a long straight band to go around the front and back. As the band was shaped I had to cut a front and back as separate pieces and sew them together. I think the seam here really helps add to the structure of the garment, making it look dead professional!

The back of the kimono was the same as the front only obviously without the neckline. I added extra width to the back to make up for the diameter of the front band, plus some for the seam allowance (not usually a fan of centre back seams, but think this looks like a really great design feature on the RI version).
The waistband on my shop version is cut all in one piece so I decided to do the same. I didnt bother to make a paper piece for it, just made note that the measurements were 53cm + 73cm + 53cm for the tie, the band then the other end of the tie. The width of the band is 5cm, so I doubled and added 1.5cm on each side. So the total measurement of the band is 1.79m x 13cm. When it came to cutting out, I halved the width and cut this on the fold.

The hardest part to draft was actually the smallest piece- the back neck band. I found it really hard to get the angles and width right where it joins the front band. It is really really important that they do though! When making my calico toile I found I'd cut the angles wrong and there was ONLY JUST enough fabric to reach the front band at the right angle. I amended the pattern but found when making my proper version it was still a bit tricky. I think in future I should cut both the front and back neck band a little longer so I have more to play with.

I noted down my construction plan as I went along with my toile so I could refer back to it when I made my proper one. I found it is really important to consider what order to do everything in so as to hide all raw edges without getting in a mess! At this point I was getting really into this pattern making thing and decided it would be super cool to make my own little pattern envelope for all my bits. I typed up the instructions and did a few nifty illustrations. Named my patterm after the gorgeous Zohra Atash of Religious To Damn/Azar Swan fame for being so mystical... Loads more drafting to do if I want a pattern for all of my girl crushes.

I'd spotted some lovely silky fabric on the market at Crystal Peaks less than two weeks prior, at only £2.99 p/m there was no doubt. I nipped out to buy some now that I knew what I was doing- finding it came in two colourways, black and pink and black and blue. Hearing my dad's voice in my head- a firm believer of 'oh, just buy them both', I did just that. If patternmaking went well, I could well just make two.

Pattern- check. Toile- check. Fabric- check. Good mood- surprisingly yes! Nothing to stop me.

It was pretty early on that I realised even with my increased self-confidence that weekend (we had a gig and it went well, I'd made my own pattern and my hair was looking good), this fabric was going to be a bit of a mare! It was stretching and slipping around all over the show! Finding the grainline was a pain! I used a shedload of pins and my rotary cutter (can only imagine the disaster if I'd used scissors!), but it was tough going. After cutting out I detached the pattern pieces then re cut any ends that seemed to have gone slightly wonky. Despite things looking a bit dodge at this point, I knew that it was possible to stretch and manipulate the fabric to some degree to get it sitting where I needed it to.

Though that said........ I started out with a french seam in that centre back, but it WOULD NOT sit flat! Typical, the one straight seam in the whole garment and it was being a total arse. Throughout construction I kept thinking it would sort itself out. I'm not sure what planet I was on. It ended up being one of the last things I did- unpicking at the neck and waist then unpicking the french seam! I put it back in as a standard, overlocked seam and even this took a few attempts to get looking flat! I can only assume the fabric had been cut a little off grain and it was not liking being told when to do. I like to get what I want though and I was not going to let this be an exception.

As expected, the join on the shoulders was a bit of a pain, what with my paper pattern being less than accurate, but after much fiddling I seemed to ace it! The front/back neck band were the only bits that I interfaced, and I boy I'm glad I did! For once I am totally in love with what interfacing did for my fabric- giving me structure right where I needed it, and also making the fabric about 1000000x easier to work with. Such I shame I couldn't interface the lot!

I was dreading sewing on the hook and eye tape as I'd never had a go before and hadn't practiced on my toile, and even the RI version was a bit lumpy... It turned out great though! Once I realised to line up the centre front on each side with the centre of the tape it was really easy. I used my zip foot so I could whizz around the edges then also in between the hooks and eyes so it wouldn't pull out of shape when it was done up. So happy! The only thing I should have done is started the tape a little lower down- I have a little gap before the hooks start just above the waistband knot. Agh! So close! I think I'll definitely be using hook and eye tape again now I have got to grips with it. Much less risky than buttonholes and much easier than sewing on individual hooks and eyes!

My other fear throughout sewing up was that the waistband would go dodgy and not match up when I came to sew it on. I was really careful with this. I folded the band and put in LOTS of pins. I stitched outward from the 53cm point in the centre towards the end so that if the presser foot pushed any fabric out of place at least it would push it away from the centre (does that make sense?). Then I made sure I used exactly 1.5cm s/a when stitching the band to the bottom of the kimono so that when I turned out the ends and folded over 1.5cm of the remaining edge- it all matched up perfectly. Phew! Relief! Last job was hemming the sleeves which was a breeze after all that! Nice one.

Having started from scratch with just a shop bought item for reference, I really do think this is my proudest make to date. I've learnt so much, before I'd even picked out my fabric! I've tried new things and proved to myself I can do it! So cheesey but so true. I'm so proud that I could make dream kimono a reality...

Now, to release her into the wild and see what damage we can do................
Let's break some hearts Zohra.

x

Currently listening to: Interpol, Pioneer To The Falls
Location: Mam Tor, Castleton

New Look K6035 Vest Top III

I'm usually a pattern first, fabric later kind of girl, but this fabric that had been sitting on the very top shelf at Hillsborough had been on my mind. So when I nipped in and found it within reach I nabbed the rest of the roll before anyone else did.

I'd acquired about 2 meters, but as a girl usually noted for wearing black, I thought a whole dress out of this wasn't going to sit comfortably.
Although it's pretty simple, my first New Look K6035 Vest Top is a firm fave, especially around the office. I thought I'd marry up my love for this fabric and the success of the pattern and make another.

It's not the trickiest pattern in the box, it's made up of two pieces- a front and back, and binding for the neck and arms. The centre front is gathered between notches and there's cute little splits at the bottom of the side seams. I knew the hardest, but also most important part of this pattern was going to be pattern-matching the different zig-zags at the side seams.

I cut everything out as single layers, matching up the pattern as I folded over the first half I'd cut. This makes for a lovely symmetrical piece! I know I'm always on about it, but honestly I absolutely swear by this for accurate cutting. For the back half I laid my paper pattern on top of the front I had cut, matched the notches and physically drew on where the zig-zags met the side seam so I could line this up with my fabric underneath before cutting the back piece.

Making up was as follows:

-French-seamed the shoulder seams
-2x rows of gathering stitches between front notches
-French-seamed side seams, making sure to pattern match as I went along. It's one thing having the pieces to match, but it can still be tricky to keep both pieces in place while stitching. I used a billion plins to keep each zig-zag together and if I wan't happy, I unpicked and did it again until I was.
-Stitched the binding ends together to create a continuous piece that is stretched to fit the neck and arm holes (not really stetched much though because it's pretty much the same length so its not tricky!)
-Pulled gathering stitches to fit the neck band

Then it's just a case of sewing on the binding and hemming the bottom really.

So so happy with the matching on the side seams! The vest isn't a close fit, but there was no way I was altering the sides once they were done!
To finish off I made a super quick head-band with a little left-over fabric. Wore the combo to work and got described as looking 'Very Boho!', so think I got it right?

x

Currently listening to: Master of Alchemy, Electric Wizard
Location: Park Hill Flats, Sheffield

Simple Sew, Charlotte Dress

This summer I was asked if I would like to become an official member of the Simple Sew Patterns blogging team. With it in mind that a large percentage of my makes to date have been Simple Sews, it would be frankly mental to turn the opportunity down! I'm going to be posting reviews, pics, hints and tips as we go along. So expect loads more Simple Sew patterns popping up on my blog.
Looks like I've made it guys!

First up is the Charlotte Dress. The pattern has two different necklines and three different sleeve lengths- or sleeveless if you fancy!
I took a browse round my usual haunt Hillsborough Fine Fabrics Sheffield on the off chance I found the perfect fabric.
Despite it not mentioning jersey fabrics on the pattern packet, browsing the Simple Sew website it looked like the model had a Charlotte made out of green jersey. Being quite a fan of sewing with knits (and so much comfier to wear right?), I was on the lookout for a stretch fabric that wasn't too plain. Anyone who knows me even a little will know something of my love for Houndstooth- so I was totally chuffed when I landed on the last little bit of this black and navy tiny houndstooth jersey!
The design is subtle and was already shouting office wear at me. The pattern states 2.78m of 45" fabric, but I wasn't put off by there only being 2m left... I was going to have to make it work!

My measurements matched up to a size 8 on the size chart, apart from my waist which was closer to a 10. I traced off the pattern and graded out to a 10 for the waist. I guessed this might end up a little on the larger size as I was using a stretch fabric, but much better to be safe than sorry. Who has time for a toile?! Not me! Though I would recommend making one if you have the time/fabric/patience... All of which I was fresh out of.

My fabric had stretched a little on the washing line (always launder your fabric first guys!) so made matching up selvedges a bit of a wobbly nightmare for cutting out. With this and the fact that I maybe wouldn't have enough fabric in mind, I decided to cut all the pieces out as single layers. I find this a MUST when pattern matching, but as the houndstooths (houndsteeth?) are really tiny, pattern matching wasn't going to be an issue here.

The way I like to do it is to cut the pattern piece, then flip it- fabric with paper still attached down the centre line, then cut the second half. It makes for great symmetry and is also more economical.. but just a bit of a pain when you don't have much space. Plus I guess it takes twice as long.
Lucky for me I could fit everything on my 2m fabric, including the 3/4 length sleeves I'd been eying up. On first thoughts I thought the skirt looked a bit short, but then I remembered I ALWAYS end up making skirts shorter- plus it looked pretty foxy on the model on the website so I went with it (right decision).
I cut the lot out on my kitchen floor using my rotary cutter which is possibly my favourite tool in my sewing kit- really can't beat it for precision.

After the success of my cap sleeves on my Cosmic English Tea Dress (another Simple Sew!), I was tempted to go for them again, but was really thrown off with the pics on the instructions. I really wasn't sure which bits needed to be stitched together and then how they needed to be inserted when stitching on the facing. They are meant to just 'pop out!'?! Maybe if I'd cut them out and played around a bit it would have made more sense! Seeing as Autumn is on it's way I had no problems with making long sleeves.
Also- confession time! I get a bit freaked out by arm hole facings! As I never toile up, I tend to make adjustments as I go and find this really difficult to do once a facing is attached. I also feel this way about linings and haven't really found a way round this yet. Am I cheating??

I have however, discovered a new love for tailor tacking after I made my Simplicity Jacket. I used to think they were total faff, but in reality they are much less faff than tracing wheel and carbon paper. So for the Charlotte Dress I tailor tacked all the dart points and cut notches for matching up at the wide end of the darts. Once I'd stitched them in I pressed the hell out of them (with a tea towel under the iron to save from any scary singeing... Been there, done that).
What it really important with this dress is lining up all the seams and making sure bodice darts match the skirt darts. It's definitely worth taking time to get it right to get a really elegant finish.


I'm a bad girl who doesn't make toiles and also hates interfacing. My second confession is I did not interface my neck facing... But you definitely should! In the past I have not liked to interface stretch fabrics as it seems to mess with the stretch-factor and then I worry about it sitting funny. The neckline could definitely do with some stability though. Is stretchy interfacing my answer?

I made up for my sins I think by understitching the facing to the seam allowance, which is not mentioned in the pattern. I love a good sneaky understitch I do, especially when it's as neat as it was this time round! This row of stitches close to the seam stops the facing from flipping out and just makes things look a bit more professional. Also, while we're on the subject of necklines, I also stay stitched my neck right at the start to stop it stretching out as I sewed. Always a handy tip that's not always mentioned in pattern instructions :)

Open out the facing, stitch facing to seam allowance close to the seam
The Charlotte Dress is described as being 'Easy Fit' which means it isn't as tight fitting as some of the others in the Simple Sew range. I tried the dress on at various stages of the making process and couldn't help but feel it would look better on me if it was a little tighter. So I made a few adjustments. To start with, I took 1 inch out of the side seams from bust to waist, then graded back out to the original hip size. Already it looked 1000 times better on me.

I did find however, that the seam allowance at my waist was looking a bit bumpy from the outside! I had overlocked this seam allowance together and pressed up, but thought the best way to solve this was to unpick the overlocking, open out the seam allowance then press it open. This would hopefully reduce the bulk by half. Sadly, having already trimmed away excess when I overlocked the first time, there wasn't enough fabric left to
go over it again now I had separated them. Thankfully, using knit fraying wasn't going to be a problem, so I settled for raw edges here over a bulky midriff.

I overlocked the centre back on both sides then pinned and TACKED in my zip. I opted for an invisible zip as they always look so classy. I'm a big fan of tacking in the zip prior to machining as it gives you chance to try on and check fit before committing. I used a 2cm seam allowance here instead of a 1.5cm.
It really adds to the overall finish of the dress to match up the waistline seam at the centre back when putting in the zip. What I like to do is tack one side in, zip the zip back up then put a little tack into the zip tape that hasn't been stitched where it meets the waistline. This can then be easily matched up when pinning and stitching to the other side.

Sleeves are usually my nemesis, but ever since the Simplicity Blogger meet up, May Martin's tips on 'Bubble Easing' a sleeve head into the arm hole have been a life changer! Instead of playing around with gathering stitches, I first matched up notches and underarm seams, then eased the sleeve fabric into place with little 'bubbles' between pins. I tacked then tried on, and as I suspected needed to take in a little more- particularly on the shoulders. I upped the seam allowance to 2cm instead of 1cm and machine stitched. Tried on, looked good, overlocked. Repeat on the other side and I'd achieved perfect sleeves in record breaking time!

So what was left was a lot of pressing and skirt and sleeve hems. I did a double turned hem on both the sleeves and skirt (pinned first then tacked because we were doing well and didn't want to ruin things with a wonky hem). I used my twin stretch needle for a neat professional finish... and voila! One Simple Sew Charlotte dress, cut and sewn in 1 weekend and ready for my business trip with work this Wednesday.

Loved the pattern- I think I took loads out of the side seams based on the fact I was using stretchy fabric and also because perhaps I had my sights set on a closer fit than the pattern intends. I'm intrigued to see how I'd get on with a woven fabric, which I suspect would suit a looser fit better than jersey. Maybe even next time I'll take a shot at those capped sleeves.

x

Currently listening to: Charlemagne, The Blossoms
Location: Five Weirs Walk, Sheffield

Simplicity 1070 Jacket

Another birthday gift! This pattern caught my eye a couple of months back and I knew I needed it in my life. I was looking for something different to make after wondering just how many dresses I needed. It was the pleather that first caught my eye, giving the Simplicity 1070 jacket a hint of biker, yet the contrasting fabric panels keeping the shape and style feminine.

On a trek out to Chesterfield Direct Fabric Warehouse I was on the search for the perfect pleather, but stopped in my tracks when I spotted this faux suede. At only £6.99 p/m I thought it was worth saving the leather dream for later and taking full advantage of my fabric find. A little more rummaging and I found the perfect jersey fabric for the other panels, that was both strong enough and stretchy enough to use for an outerwear garment.

The only other fabric needed was a little bit of lining which is used for the pockets only. I found all this in the Chesterfield shop which made the journey very worth while!

Using all black fabric meant no need for pattern matching (yay!) so cutting out wasn't as traumatic or time consuming as some. I was however, super-duper careful lining up the grainlines on the pattern pieces when laying and cutting out. I knew that one dodgy placement could lead to a wonky panel and I wanted none of that! I bought a little extra fabric than suggested in the pattern as I rounded the yardage up to the nearest half meter and the lady in the shop cut a little extra in case it wasn't cut straight, but I found I lad LOADS of all three fabrics left. I would say almost enough to make another- definitely if I cut the facing panels in suede instead of jersey. Although it's much better to have too much than not enough, this left-over fabric situation is getting to be a bit of a nightmare in my house! Luckily though, there is probably enough to make a jumper from the jersey- a cropped one at least, so I can see myself getting down to that as the Autumn months roll in.

Armed with rotary cutter and the kitchen floor, cutting out went well. I was really precise with my tailor's tacks too, as my making pens weren't going to show up on the black. It was well worth that time and effort as the sleeve process was made much easier by the alignment of tailors tacks.
I have seen some bloggers have mixed and matched the different fabrics for different panels on the jacket, but I stuck to what was on the packet with the front and back yoke and two front panels cut from suede and the rest from jersey. The only thing I did change was I chose to make the fastening straps from suede too as the jersey fabric was just a bit too bulky and would not sit flat.

On to actual sewing... My Mom said it looked like I was doing some really tricky stuff... But in reality this jacket was actually pretty easy! I didn't really struggle with any of the process. I followed the instructions to the letter (just about), especially after watching this years' Sewing Bee! Shaping didn't really seem to be an issue in the body- the front pieces are kind of flowy anyway and I just followed the lines on the back and it fit fine!
Arms were a little different, but I had expected this. I've noticed on a few garments that the shoulders are a little too long for me, meaning the sleeve starts too low. Eyeing up the jacket on Celine, pre-sleeves, I thought it wouldn't be a bad idea to make the seam allowance 2cm instead of 1.5cm on the sleeve heads. I was worried about setting sleeves in as it is never my favourite task, and saw gathering stitches were involved, but a combination of well placed tailor tacks and May Martin's 'bubble-ease' technique they set in really nicely! Tacked in, I tried the jacket on and found that there was a little too much fabric in the arms. I took a little out of the back seam on the sleeve (each sleeve has an upper and under panel), and replicated this on the other side. The fit was much better. It could get away with a little more coming out but I thought I would quit while I was ahead as things were going WELL.

The cuffs are blind hemmed. I don't have a blind hem machine so I did it all by hand... Which turned out okay! Much nicer than a visible machine seam I think.

My favourite part of making the jacket was when you stitch on the facing and turn it- then suddenly it looks like a finished item. The only thing I am not happy about on the jacket is that I decided not to interface the facing fabric! My reasoning- The fabric was pretty sturdy anyway and I didn't want to make it bulky, as also I didn't know how much stretch was required. I didn't want to interface the facing only to find that it stopped the fabric from stretching where it needed to and made it stick out funny. I know! It's madness and I should definitely have interfaced the front and the facing front. As it is, the fabrics bag out a little and lose their shape... Basically they do what fabric does which is why they invented interfacing in the first place. I KNOW. I am a fool, but it wasn't the end of the world. We've all learnt something- next time I'm told to interface something I will.

Whilst faffing about with the front facing, I discovered that I was totally in love with the softer, fluffy side of the jersey fabric. If I'd found this sooner I might have been tempted to flip the front facings round so that this side was showing on the inside of the front. I think it could have made the jacket look more snug than smart which might have been a nice touch, so I'm thinking maybe next time, if I find my perfect pleather, I might flip the jersey and have nice fluffy fabric on the outer! What do you think?

Both fabrics were great as neither were prone to fraying. Although using a jersey I didn't have to give it any special treatment. I used a normal needle (80), and overlocked seams for neatening purposes, but in many places I could have just left them.

The jacket fastens with 2 D-rings and a strap, which is great because a) No zips, and b) No buttons! Though I did get a popper putter-inner for my birthday, which I'm still yet to have a go with. Maybe we will add poppers to the GOALS list on my bedroom wall, 'cause I'm crossing everything else off left right and center

x

Currently listening to: Beg For It, Iggy Azalea ft. MØ
Location: University of Sheffield, Sheffield City Centre