Simplicity 8513, Bodysuit

I had a bit of a phase last year when I was obsessed with the Simplicity 8513 Bodysuit pattern. Since then every time I spot some pretty black stretch fabric I add it to my stash with view to making another.

Incorporating subtle differences to each one, I decided this time to make the high-neck version. It wasn't until I sat down to start making the pattern that I realised this view included a zipper in the back neck. After a bit of Googling I soon realised I wasn't the only one who thought a zip in the garment when the fabric was so stretchy was something that could be avoided. After a few 'does this neck band stretch over my head?' tests I deemed my fabric stretchy enough to go without and got on with making.

 

My pattern includes a couple of extra inches in the length at the waist as before. I decided to crop the length of the sleeve this time, just to make the design a little more power-dressy and a little less morphsuit. I hemmed them with a 1.5cm hem with the twin needle before assembling the sleeves. Doing this while they are still flat is sort of cheating but saves you having to stretch the little hand hole around the machine. 

I had found that on my prior 8513 bodysuits there was a little too much fabric in the underarm area so this time I did a bit of research on how to make it more fitted. I learned that this could be improved by adjusting the angle of the shoulder seams or by making the chest length a little shorter. With this in mind, I took 1.5cm out across the chest on the front piece only, above the armhole notches. I matched this on the sleeve pattern on the front only, tapering into the centre of the sleeve. Again I made sure the alteration was above the notches so the sleeves would mach to the body. 

My fabric was particularly stretchy, so this time I didn't reduce the side seam allowances to 1cm. I tried the sleeves with a 1.5cm seam allowance too, but gee, I think it must be all the working out, they were a bit too tight, especially at the elbow, so I restitched with a 1cm seam allowance all the was down.  

 

My top tip for cutting this pattern is to extend the back crotch piece by a few inches. this way even if you've cut the pattern a little short in the body, or your fabric isn't quite a stretchy as you had anticipated you can adjust the length of the crotch piece at try-on time to make it fit!

I think my favourite part of making this bodysuit is attaching the elastic to the leg holes. I stitched this on right sides together with picot edge facing inwards, and then flip to the underside and stitch again. I didn't particularly apply any extra tension to the elastic, maybe just a little around the bum cheek area to aid the fit. I love how professional these edges look when the zig-zag stitching is complete. 

To finish I hand stitched 3 press stud poppers on the crotch area. Done! I love it!

With the improved fit of the garment I am super excited to plan my next bodysuit. I quite fancy some powermesh panelling (don't I always). I love the idea of creating a sweetheart neckline and then using the powermesh for the sleeves and shoulders.... Time to get creative!

x

Location: Sidney Street / Pinball Park, Sheffield
Currently listening to: Passing Through, Do Damage