McCalls M7575 Shirt

So I got a new job. Again. I'm at a strange point in my life where I don't know what I want or where I'm going. But what I DO know, is I want to look good while I'm doing it... Whatever 'it' is. 'It' for me right now is to keep turning up and keep doing my best, and what better confidence booster than doing that in a shirt you made yourself.

The McCalls M7575 pattern is a classic semi-fitted shirt style, with a few different variables you can play around with (sleeve length, collar style etc). The shirt has front and back darts as well as an undersleeve panel which all give great opportunity to play around with fit. The pattern also gives some great tips on fitting. Eager to make a shirt that was totally 'me', I was actually excited to make my toile so I could see what we could have a play around with. I cut a 10, and would you believe, I was SO happy with the fit without a single alteration!! I didn't want it too tight fitting as I love a bit of flounce over the top of my skit, plus a little extra room always gives opportunity to knot up the front and rock some beach vibes.


I've just got moved into my home studio and the theme is mainly monochrome in there. Inspired by this on my fabric hunt, I picked two lightweight shirt fabrics both in black and white. The first was a bit cassic NHS-blouse with little dots on, and the second a little more vibrant- this monochrome/tropical combo! Keen to have impact, I chose to make my first from the tropical. It was about £3.99 p/m from Hillsborough Fine Fabrics.

Assembling the shirt is easy really if you've made any kind of shirt before. The cuffs are maybe the hardest part, just cause you've got to make sure those pleats are neat and your button is on the right side etc, but as long as you concentrate its not too tricky. I will note though that I found that the cuffs and also the front band stretched out a little as they were cut on the bias. I had to cut a bit off of one of my front bands!! So next time I would just advise myself to check that the cuffs are the same length before sewing them onto the sleeve... OK fine, one of mine might be a tiiiiiiny bit longer than the other but you would NEVER have known if I didn't just tell you okay?! I'd also note it's really handy to have transferred the pattern markings to the cuffs so you can match up all the seams. The slits in the sleeves are hand stitched but I reckon you could get away with topstitching if you cba by hand.

The pattern gives option for pockets but this time I declined as I didn't want to break up that crazy pattern. I might have a play around with pockets if I make a stripey one though.

Collarwise, once you've made one collar I think you've made them all. They can be a bit fiddly but again, if you take your time they aren't too difficult. Harder than the collar is probably getting the curved hem to behave. The pattern suggests a loose line of stitching to pull to help ease in the curves. I did the stitching and used this as a guide for the hem, but found good pressing with the iron and lots and lots of pins helped as good as anything to get around those curves. Just don't rush it and it will be fine!!

Buttonholes are perhaps my nemesis. I think this is where my bottom of the range sewing machine really falls down. I know it's easy to blame your tools, but it is pretty shit at making a good buttonhole. They all function though, and when the buttons are in place you can't see that some of them are a bit lumpy. Shhhhh!! I used the pattern as a guide for button placement. When I make another I will slightly alter the distance between the buttons as there is a little bit of gaping at my tummy. Shut up! Don't tell!

Other than that, there's not really any changes I would make. I could get away with taking a little out of the back of the sleeve but I don't think it's essential. I'm super happy with the shirt! I have thought about playing around with the sleeves and maybe adding some 70s style flounce like the MIA BLOUSE.

With different fabrics I can make a whole bunch of office-ready shirts! Bring it on.... Whatever 'it' may be.

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